Classic X-Back Outdoor Sofa

Nail the shorter angled 1x2 pieces to the longer 1x2 pieces to form ten identical X halves. Test-fit that a 1x2 slots correctly into the middle of each before moving on.

Combine the ten halves into five complete Xs. Stack all five on top of each other and check they match before proceeding — this is the checkpoint that catches a mismatched panel while it's still cheap to fix.

Attach the 2x2 X ends to all five X panels, using either pocket holes (set for 3/4" stock, 1-1/4" screws — it's fine if the pocket hangs slightly over the board edge) or 2-1/2" screws or nails and glue.

On two of the five X panels, attach 2x3 tops and bottoms with pocket holes, then attach the legs to these two ends. Finish each end by adding the 2x6 apron, either with pocket holes or 2-1/2" screws countersunk from the outside. Set both completed ends aside.

Lay out all the back pieces and mark the joints. Drill pocket holes set for 1-1/2" stock and assemble with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, checking for square as you go. This is the longest single step in the build — take the time to get it right, since everything else registers off it.

Attach the finished back to the two end assemblies with 2-1/2" screws and glue, adjusting for square as you go.

Attach the front apron to complete the frame. Add the seat cleats, setting the back cleat slightly lower than the front — a small recline makes a real difference in comfort.

Lay and screw down the seat slats, adding more than the base cut list calls for if your cushions are on the softer side. Sand everything, attach the curtain-rod finials to the X ends for the finishing decorative touch, and apply an exterior finish.