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Two holes hold the wine bottle: a 3-1/2" hole for the body, cut first with a hole saw, and a smaller hole for the neck positioned by actually testing your bottle against the cut — the plan is explicit that this second hole's placement varies from its own diagram once you check a real bottle. Cut both bottle holes before assembling the box — a hole saw this size puts a lot of torque on the piece, and doing it on an already-glued box risks breaking the joints apart.
Assemble the box with glue and screws once the bottle holes are cut. The wine glass slots need to be sized to your own stemware, not the plan's numbers — the given dimensions worked for one set of glasses, but you should measure and check your own so the glasses don't rub against each other. The trick that makes this work: the glass's foot drops into a larger hole, and a jigsawed channel lets you slide the narrow stem in sideways to lock it in place — no clips or hardware needed to keep the glasses from tipping.
| Item |
|---|
| Qty |
|---|
| 1x6, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Trim screws, 1-5/8" | 8 each |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Hole saw, 3-1/4 in | 1 each |
| Hole saw, 1 in | 1 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Long sides1x6, 4 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16" |
| Short sides1x6, 4 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 7" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Mark and cut the larger hole for the wine bottle body with a 3-1/2" hole saw. Test your actual bottle to position the smaller neck hole, then cut it with a 1-1/2" hole saw, before assembling the box.
Assemble the box with glue and the trim screws.
Measure your own wine glasses and cut the stemware slots to fit, checking that the glasses don't rub against each other.
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