NotchUse your browser's Print (Ctrl/Cmd + P) and choose Save as PDF. This page works offline once you've opened it with a signal.
WALL HUNG PHOTO FRAME
Frame inspired by Kreg's Simply Stunning Photo Frame build completed by Daniel Campbell....Liked the curly maple he used.
- Difficulty
- Intermediate
- Time
- 3.8–7.3 hours
- Cost
- $$
Cut list
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rails | 8 | 3/4" × 1" × 5" | — | ☐ |
| Stiles | 8 | 3/4" × 1" × 10" | — | ☐ |
| Vertical stops | 8 | 1/4" × 1/4" × 6" | — | ☐ |
| Horizontal stops | 8 | 1/4" × 1/4" × 5" | — | ☐ |
| Backers | 4 | 1/4" × 5" × 7" | — | ☐ |
Materials
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Board, 3/4" Thick 5" x 48" | 1 board | ☐ |
| Balsa Wood, 1/4" Thick 36" | 4 board | ☐ |
| Basswood, 1/4" Thick Full Sheet | 1 board | ☐ |
| Saw tooth picture hangers for each photo frame | 2 each | ☐ |
| Picture frame turn buttons for each photo frame | 4 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools
- Miter Saw
- Pocket Hole Jig
- Random Orbit Sander
- Router
- Table Saw
- Bar / Pipe Clamps — optional
- Tape Measure — optional
Instructions
1. CUT THE STILES AND RAILS
This build is for 4 frames Used a 3/4" x 5" x 48" curly maple board from a national woodworking and hardware supplier Cut (8) 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 10 5/8" stiles Cut (8) 3/4" x 1 5/8" rails
2. ADD CHAMFERS TO STILES AND RAILS
Using a 45 degree router bit add a 1/16" chamfer to the short ends of the 5 1/8" rails and to the inward side of the 10 5/8" stiles Also using a 45 degree router bit a 1/8" chamfer to the styles and rails as shown
3. DRILL THE RAILS
Using your Kreg pocket hole jig set up for 3/4" material, drill pocket holes at the ends of each rail as shown
4. ASSEMBLE THE RAILS AND STILES
Now you can position the rails against the stiles as shown—inset 1/4" from the ends, and then attach the rails using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws.
5. CUT THE STOPS
- Cut two horizontal stops and two vertical stops for each frame to length from 1/4" square dowels, as shown in the cutting diagram.
- Measure your frame opening carefully at cut the dowels so they have a snug fit.
- Start with the horizontal stops, fitting them between the stiles.
- Then proceed to the vertical stops, fitting them between the horizontal stops.
6. FINISH THE STOPS BEFORE ASSEMBLY
Color the stops with a black spray paint and then let the stops dry thoroughly. It’s much easier to do this before you attach them to the frame.
7. INSTALL THE STOPS
- Use a 5" x 7" x 1/8" hardboard spacer. This will be used to help position the stops.
- Place the spacer frame face-down on a flat surface.
- Apply a very thin bead of glue to the horizontal stops and glue them in place first. Try to avoid having glue squeeze out and make sure the stops are resting against the spacer.
- Then glue in the vertical stops the same way. Use masking tape or small clamps to hold the stops in place while the glue dries. Scrape away any squeezed-out glue just after it begins to harden, but before it dries completely.
8. CUT THE BACKER
Cut the backer to size from 1/4" basswood. Sand the edges smooth.
9. FINISH THE FRAME AND BACKER
I used (3) coats of Danish Oil, and (3) coats of a wipe on poly finish. I also apply a spray coat of sealer after the poly finish. I followed the steps shown in the video in the 'extra' section for applying the Danish Oil
10. ADD HARDWARE - GLASS MAT AND BACKER
install the saw tooth picture hangers and turn buttons. See 'extra' section for availability of hangers and turn buttons. Install a 1/8" x 5" x 7" thick single-strength glass cut to fit the frame. Note that the glass dimensions are just slightly smaller than the opening in the frame. Install a mat if using a 4" x 6" photo. I used a 5" x 7" mat. Or just install a 5" x 7" photo in the frame. I also added (4) rubber bumpers at the corners to protect the wall.
