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Nearly every measurement in this stand is a formula keyed to the baskets you're buying, not a fixed number — the same design philosophy as this catalog's other basket- and mirror-sized organizers. Buy the three baskets FIRST, measure their depth and the inside lip width, then work the frame dimensions from those real numbers. A stand built to a generic cut list and married to baskets that don't quite match will either bind or leave sloppy gaps.
The two end frames are the foundation, and they need to be genuinely square before anything else happens — measure both diagonals and adjust until they match, the same check that matters on any box frame. Once square, the basket cleats (runners) get marked and leveled across both frames before fastening, because a cleat that's slightly higher on one end than the other tips every basket that rests on it.
The top planking closes out the build and is the one place to double-check square again before nailing — small errors in the frame become very visible once a grid of parallel boards sits across the top. If your basket depth measurement lands close to 24", the plan calls out cutting to 23-7/8" instead, which is the kind of quarter-inch that makes the difference between stock cut efficiently from standard lumber lengths and stock that wastes a inch of every board.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 10 ftLegs, frame, and basket cleats — estimate; depends on your baskets' dimensions. | 7 each |
| 1x6, 8 ftTop planking — estimate. | 3 each |
| Self-tapping star bit screws, 2-1/2" | 80 each |
| Self-tapping star bit screws, 1-3/4" | 50 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, 120 grit | 4 each |
| Paint, stain, or finish | 1 qt |
| Laundry baskets, 1.5 bushelNot part of the woodworking cost — buy these FIRST and measure them before cutting anything. | 6 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Outer legs2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Inner legs2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 26 1/4" |
| Long horizontal frame2x4Formula: (your baskets' inside lip measurement + 3") x 3, plus 3" more. About 60" for typical 1.5-bushel baskets. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 60" |
| Basket cleats2x4Cut to your basket's actual depth. If that number lands close to 24", cut to 23-7/8" instead to use lumber efficiently. | 12 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24" |
| Top planking1x6Length matches your basket depth; quantity depends on the stand's overall width — 10 to 12 boards is typical. | 11 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 24" |
Buy 14 boards at 8 ft.
10 boards
4 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two frames from the outer and inner legs using the longer screws. Check each for square by measuring opposite diagonals and adjusting until they match exactly — everything else in this build references off these two frames.
Mark the location of the cleats (runners) on both frames at the same height, and attach level inside the frames with two screws per joint. A cleat that's off-level on one end will tip every basket resting on it.
Attach the long horizontal frame pieces to connect the two end frames into one stand, checking for square again before moving on.
Attach the 1x6 top planking across the frame with the shorter screws, even gaps between boards. Sand, finish, and set the baskets in place.
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