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The tapered legs are trimmed together into one assembly before that assembly ever meets the nightstand body — the four legs get joined by mitered front/back and side trim pieces first, checked for square on its own, and only then attached underneath. Building it in that order means you're squaring up a small, easy-to-handle leg frame instead of fighting the whole nightstand body to keep it square.
The drawer construction has one hard dependency worth flagging up front: the drawer box dimensions in this plan assume a 1/2" slide allowance per side, so if your slides use a different clearance, adjust the drawer box size before you cut anything — building to the stated dimensions with different-clearance slides is the single most common way a drawer ends up too tight or too sloppy. Install the drawer slides before the top goes on; it's dramatically easier to reach the mounting screws with the top off.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x3, 12 ftLegs and trim. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ftBottom, top, and drawer sides/back. | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 6 ftSides, back, and drawer front. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 2 ftDrawer bottom — buy a 4 ft board if that's the shortest available. | 1 each |
| Drawer slides, 10" or 11" | 1 pair |
| Wood filler | 1 container |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2" | 1 box |
| Finish nails | 1 box |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| BottomPine | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18" |
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 14" |
| BackPine | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| LegsPineTapered per step 3 — mark 6" down one side, 1.5" in from the opposite edge at the bottom, and cut the connecting line. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" |
| Front/back trimPineBoth ends cut at 45°. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12" |
| Side trimPineBoth ends cut at 45°. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 6 5/8" |
| Drawer bottomPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 15 1/2" |
| Drawer sidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Drawer backPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 14" |
| TopPine | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18" |
| Drawer frontPineTrimmed 1/4" narrower than the raw 1x6. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/4" × 16 1/4" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Line up the four bottom boards side by side, flush to each other, and attach together (a pocket hole jig makes this fast). Attach a side board across each side of the bottom assembly, keeping the front, back, and sides flush.
Slip the back board between the two side boards, flush with the back edge, and attach through the sides into its ends.
Mark 6" down one edge of each leg. Along the bottom edge, measure 1-1/2" in from the opposite side. Draw a line connecting the two marks and cut along it on all four legs.
Cut each end of the front/back and side trim boards at a 45° angle, making sure the cuts are perpendicular to each other (not both leaning the same way). Use the trim pieces to connect the four tapered legs, keeping the top and inside edges flush and every taper pointing in toward the middle. Glue every joint and assemble with finishing nails or screws. Check for square by measuring corner to corner in both directions — matching measurements confirm it's square — before attaching this assembly to the nightstand body.
Attach the leg assembly to the bottom of the nightstand body, set back 2-1/4" from the front and 1-1/2" from each side. Aim for at least one screw into each board.
Attach a drawer side to each end of the drawer bottom, then attach the drawer back between the sides.
Follow the drawer-slide manufacturer's instructions to install the box — this is far easier before the top is on. These dimensions assume a 1/2" clearance allowance per side; if your slides use a different clearance, adjust the drawer box size to match. Keep the drawer box recessed 3/4" from the nightstand's face so the drawer front ends up flush later.
Once the drawer box is installed, attach the top — assemble the four boards side by side with a pocket hole jig, or attach them individually, using finish nails and glue.
Trim 1/4" off the drawer-front board so it's 5-1/4" tall — a table saw gives the cleanest cut, but a circular saw works. For a standard drawer pull, leave the front as a flat board. For a notched pull instead, cut a notch in the top edge with a reciprocating saw, measuring in 6" from each side and notching down 1". Center the finished drawer front on the drawer box with an even 1/8" gap all around (with the top in place, so the gap reads correctly), flush to the nightstand's face, and attach with finish nails and glue. Tracing the drawer box's outline onto the back of the front first helps you know exactly where to nail.
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2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →