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A solid 4x4-post queen bed with slatted 1x12 headboard and footboard panels, joined with pocket screws. Heavy, simple, and built to last.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Posts | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 72" | 4x4 | ☐ |
| Headboard/footboard rails Headboard top and bottom, plus footboard top. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 58" | 2x6 | ☐ |
| Headboard slats Trimmed to 23-3/4" to conserve wood; does not affect strength. | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 23 3/4" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Footboard slats | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 12" | 1x12 | ☐ |
| Footboard bottom rail | 1 | 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" × 58" | 2x10 | ☐ |
| Side rails | 2 | 1 1/2" × 9 1/4" × 80" | 2x10 | ☐ |
| Cleats Optional — carries the mattress slats. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 80" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Mattress slats Optional — quantity and spacing depend on your mattress. | 12 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 60" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 4x4, 8 ft, untreated Posts, cut to 72". Untreated — this is indoor furniture. | 4 each | ☐ |
| 2x6, 8 ft (or stud) Headboard/footboard top and bottom rails. | 3 each | ☐ |
| 1x12, 6 ft Headboard and footboard slats. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 2x10, 8 ft Footboard bottom and side rails. | 3 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 8 ft (or stud) Cleats (optional). | 2 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in | 1 box | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2 in For the thick 2x stock. | 1 box | ☐ |
| Construction screws, 2-1/2 in For the cleats. | 1 box | ☐ |
| Bed-rail brackets Optional but recommended — lets the bed knock down for moving. | 1 set | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle | ☐ |
| Finish or paint | 1 quart | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft (or stud), 1x12, 6 ft, 2x10, 8 ft
Drill three 3/4" pocket holes on each end of every 1x12 slat first — that's all the 3/4" holes on the whole bed, so you set the jig once. Then reset the jig for 1-1/2" stock and drill the 2x6 headboard rails (two per end) and the footboard bottom panel (three). Doing it in two batches instead of switching back and forth saves a surprising amount of fiddling.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft (or stud), 1x12, 6 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in, Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2 in, Wood glue
Attach the slats to the top and bottom 2x6 rails with 1-1/4" pocket screws and glue, leaving a 3/8" reveal on each side of every 1x12 where it meets the 2x6. Even reveals are what make a slatted panel look intentional rather than approximate.
Attach the finished headboard panel to two of the posts. If you trimmed the slats to 23-3/4" as in the cut list, set the bottom rail 28-1/4" up from the bottom of the posts.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Speed Square. Materials: 2x6, 8 ft (or stud), 1x12, 6 ft, 2x10, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in, Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2 in, Wood glue
Repeat the process for the footboard: slats between the top 2x6 rail and the 2x10 bottom panel, 3/8" reveals, attached to the two shorter-exposed posts. The footboard is lower than the headboard, so the panel sits proportionally down the posts.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set. Materials: 2x10, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2 in, Bed-rail brackets
Join the 2x10 side rails to the head- and footboard posts with bed-rail brackets (recommended — the bed comes apart for moving) or with pocket screws for a permanent build. Brackets earn their cost on a bed this heavy the first time you have to move it through a doorway.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 2x4, 8 ft (or stud), Construction screws, 2-1/2 in, Finish or paint
Glue and screw the 2x4 cleats to the inside of the side rails with 2-1/2" screws roughly every 8", positioned so the mattress slats sit at the right height for your mattress and box spring (or slat system).
Lay the 2x4 mattress slats across the cleats. If your mattress needs it, run a center support the length of the bed with a leg down to the floor — a queen span benefits from one. Sand and finish.