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This chaise's whole identity is its reclining back — pivoted on a bolt through the main frame rather than fixed at one angle, so the backrest genuinely adjusts and rests against a stop block when fully reclined. Build the main frame and the back frame first, notching the main frame for the back support with a jigsaw — 2x6 lumber is used for both frames rather than the thinner 2x4 shown in some older diagrams of this design, a deliberate strengthening update carried over from user feedback on the original build.
Add the seat slats to the main frame, then attach the legs in two rows — the first row supports the main frame, and the second, taller row up front is what gives the chaise its slight recline angle and, not incidentally, provides a resting spot for the stop block when the back is folded fully down.
The pivot bolt connection is the one step worth doing with the pieces clamped in place rather than pre-drilled separately — clamp the back frame against the main frame at the desired pivot point, then drill through both simultaneously so the holes line up exactly; drilling them independently risks a bolt that doesn't move freely once assembled. Attach the back slats to the back frame either before or after this pivot connection is made — user feedback on this design notes it's genuinely easier to bolt the frames together first and add the back slats afterward.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x6, 9 ft or stud length | 2 each |
| 2x4, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 8 each |
| 1/4" bolts, 4 in, with nuts and washers | 2 each |
| Self-tapping exterior wood screws, 2-3/4" | 40 each |
| Exterior screws, 2", or galvanized brad nails and glue | 60 each |
| Primer and paint, or exterior stain | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Main frame sides2x6, 9 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 85" |
| Main frame front/back2x6, 9 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 21" |
| Seat slats1x3, 8 ft | 16 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Legs, tall2x4, 8 ft | 6 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 14" |
| Legs, short2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 7" |
| Back frame sides2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 32" |
| Back frame rails2x4, 8 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 17 1/2" |
| Back slats1x3, 8 ft | 7 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 37 1/2" |
| Stop block2x4, 8 ft | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
3 boards
9 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the main frame using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, or 2-3/4" countersunk screws. Notch out for the back support with a jigsaw.
Attach the seat slats to the main frame, attaching from underneath with pocket holes if desired.
Attach the first row of legs, then attach the second, taller row of legs to the front. Use 2-3/4" self-tapping screws and glue with multiple screws per joint for a solid connection.
Build the back frame the same way as the main frame.
Clamp the back frame in place against the main frame at the desired pivot point, then drill through both simultaneously so the holes align. Insert the bolts with nuts and washers.
Attach the back slats to the back frame with exterior screws or brad nails and glue.
Attach the stop block to the main frame at the position that stops the reclined back frame.
Sand all surfaces and apply primer and paint, or exterior stain.
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