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This is a deliberately forgiving build — butt joints, glue, and brad nails, no pocket holes or slides required. The whole thing is a pair of shelves held between four built-up legs, with a simple nailed drawer box that rides on wooden guides instead of metal hardware.
The one detail that makes or breaks it is the legs. Each leg is a 1x2 and a 1x3 joined into an L, and the orientation matters: the wider 1x3 faces front and back, the 1x2 faces the sides. Get that backwards and the drawer opening comes out the wrong width and the drawer won't fit. The plan hammers this point for a reason.
Because the drawer runs on wood guides, the payoff is in careful measuring, not expensive parts. Confirm the drawer opening is truly 11" wide and about 11" deep before you build the box, and the drawer drops in like it was meant to.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12, 8 ftShelves and the front countertop piece. | 1 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftLeg pieces, drawer guides, and trim. | 2 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftFront/back leg pieces and the back countertop piece. | 1 each |
| 1x6, 8 ftDrawer back, sides, and face. | 1 each |
| 1x10, 4 ftDrawer bottom. | 1 each |
| 1/2" plywoodDrawer box sides and back — a scrap/partial sheet is plenty. A 1x12 can substitute for the sides. | 1 sheet |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood filler and finish | 1 kit |
| Drawer knob | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Shelves1x12Part A. | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 15" |
| Leg side pieces1x2Part B — the side face of each leg. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 25 1/2" |
| Leg front/back pieces1x3Part C — the front/back face of each leg. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 25 1/2" |
| Drawer box sides1/2" plywoodPart D. If using a 1x12 instead, make the plywood back (E) 1/2" shorter. | 2 | 1/2" × 5 3/4" × 11 1/2" |
| Drawer box back1/2" plywoodPart E. | 1 | 1/2" × 5 3/4" × 14" |
| Drawer guides1x2Part F. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11" |
| Bottom front trim1x2Part G. | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Side trim pieces1x2Part H. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
| Back countertop piece1x3Part I. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
| Front countertop piece1x12Part J. | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 18 1/2" |
| Drawer bottom1x10Part K. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 9 1/2" |
| Drawer back1x6Part L. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Drawer sides1x6Part M. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 10 1/4" |
| Drawer face1x6Part N. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 11" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
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1 board
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2 boards
Each leg is a 1x2 glued and nailed to a 1x3 along the long edge to form an L. Make all four.
The orientation is the single most important thing in this build: the 1x3 face goes on the front and back of the nightstand, the 1x2 face on the sides. Mark each leg 3-1/2" up from the bottom while you're at it — that mark sets the shelf height. Get the leg orientation wrong and the drawer will not fit.
Fasten the legs to one shelf so the bottom of the shelf sits flush with the 3-1/2" marks from the previous step. That leaves a 3-1/2" clearance under the nightstand. Keep the 1x3 faces front and back.
Mark the legs 5-3/4" down from the top on the inside faces, and attach the top shelf there. That 5-3/4" clearance from the top of the shelf to the top of the piece is the drawer box's home.
With the case standing, add the plywood side pieces of the drawer box. If you chose to use 1x12 for the sides instead of plywood, remember to make the back piece (E) 1/2" shorter — 13-1/2" x 5-3/4".
Nail the front trim piece (G) along the bottom edge, keeping its top edge flush with the shelf. Then add the four side trim pieces (H) to the bottom shelf and the bottom of the drawer-box sides.
Add the back countertop piece (I) with a 1" overhang on each side, then the front countertop piece (J) with a 1" overhang on the sides and front.
Before you build the drawer, measure the inside of the drawer box: it should be exactly 11" wide and about 11" deep (10-1/4" to the bottom shelf, 11" to the side of the legs). Fix any discrepancy now — the drawer is built to these numbers.
Start with the bottom piece (K) and nail the back (L) to it, driving through the back into the bottom. Add a side, nailing through the side into both the bottom and the back; repeat on the other side. Finally nail the face (N) on.
Work on a flat surface and keep everything square as you go — a drawer racked out of square binds in a wood-guided opening.
If everything was measured honestly, the drawer slides into the opening on its guides with a clean fit. If it binds, find the tight spot rather than forcing it.
Fill nail holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and finish as you like. Add the knob last.
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2 boards
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →