Simple 18-Inch Doll Bed — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 2 1/2" — 1x3, 16 in

1 board · 0.2 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 18% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 78 3/4" left over
8"8"
1. End panel top rails — 8"
2. End panel top rails — 8"

3/4" × 1 1/2" — 1x2, 12 ft total (furring strips)

2 boards · 1.1 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 68% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 2 3/4" left over
18 1/2"18 1/2"17 3/4"17 3/4"9 1/2"9 1/2"
1. Side rails, upper — 18 1/2"
2. Side rails, upper — 18 1/2"
3. Side rails, lower — 17 3/4"
4. Side rails, lower — 17 3/4"
5. End panel verticals — 9 1/2"
6. End panel verticals — 9 1/2"
Board 2 · 59 1/2" left over
9 1/2"9 1/2"8"8"
1. End panel verticals — 9 1/2"
2. End panel verticals —

1/4" × 17" — 1/4" plywood or sturdy cardboard, for mattress support

1 board · 0.6 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 20% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 76 7/8" left over
18"
1. Mattress platform — 18"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.

3/4" × 2 1/2" — 1x3, 16 in

Board 1 · 78 3/4" left over

3/4" × 1 1/2" — 1x2, 12 ft total (furring strips)

Board 1 · 2 3/4" left over

Board 2 · 59 1/2" left over

1/4" × 17" — 1/4" plywood or sturdy cardboard, for mattress support

Board 1 · 76 7/8" left over