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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
A Kreg-style pocket-hole jig makes this whole bench. Build the two end trestles using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" exterior pocket screws plus glue. Cut the 10° bevels carefully — the leg splay is what keeps this bench from tipping, and a leg cut square will rock. Build the center leg now too if you like.
Join the leg sets to their headers with 1-1/2" pocket holes, 2-1/2" pocket screws, and glue. Keep each trestle flat and square as you fasten so all the feet land in one plane.
Build the bench top first, joining the boards with pocket holes. For outdoor use, leave a small gap between the top boards so water drains rather than sits in the seams. Then attach the trestles to the underside of the top with a 10-1/4" overhang past each end.
Either build the center leg as a full trestle and attach it the way you did the ends, or attach the middle header at this stage and add the leg next. Center it along the span so it actually supports the middle of the seat, not just decorates it.
Fasten the center leg at the middle. For extra rigidity on a long bench, tie the center leg into the outside trestles with a stretcher — worth doing if the bench will see hard use.
Optionally frame the bench top with the angled end aprons for extra support and a finished edge, cutting the 25°/17° ends so they wrap the top cleanly. Ease all the edges and apply an exterior finish or let a cedar version silver naturally.