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This is a nearly-7-foot bench with sawhorse legs — two angled end trestles plus a center support, all splayed outward so the bench plants itself firmly and won't tip when someone sits on the end. The sawhorse geometry is what gives it stability and looks, and it's also what makes it a step up in difficulty: the legs are cut with 10° bevels, and the top's end pieces get 25°/17° angled cuts, so you'll spend real time at the miter saw.
A pocket-hole jig is strongly recommended — it's how the leg trestles and the top go together cleanly, with 2-1/2" pocket screws and glue at every joint. Build the two end trestles first, then the center, then tie them to the top.
Since it lives outside, decide up front: build the top tight for a benchtop feel, or leave small gaps between the top boards so rain drains through instead of pooling. For an outdoor bench, the gaps are the right call. Use exterior screws and a rot-resistant or treated species.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ftLegs, supports, top. Use a rot-resistant species for outdoor use. | 5 each |
| 2x6, 8 ftCenter top board. | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2", exterior | 40 each |
| Waterproof wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| End legs2x4Both ends 10° double bevel, ends parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Center legs2x4Both ends 10° off square, ends parallel (single bevel, not double). | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/4" |
| Leg feet/tops2x4Longest point; both ends 10° off square, not parallel. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 5 5/8" |
| Trestle gussets2x4Both ends 45° bevel, not parallel. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 12 1/2" |
| Top rails2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 88" |
| Top center board2x6 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 88" |
| End aprons2x4One end 25° bevel, other end 17° bevel, cut in the same direction. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 32 1/4" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
5 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
A Kreg-style pocket-hole jig makes this whole bench. Build the two end trestles using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" exterior pocket screws plus glue. Cut the 10° bevels carefully — the leg splay is what keeps this bench from tipping, and a leg cut square will rock. Build the center leg now too if you like.
Join the leg sets to their headers with 1-1/2" pocket holes, 2-1/2" pocket screws, and glue. Keep each trestle flat and square as you fasten so all the feet land in one plane.
Build the bench top first, joining the boards with pocket holes. For outdoor use, leave a small gap between the top boards so water drains rather than sits in the seams. Then attach the trestles to the underside of the top with a 10-1/4" overhang past each end.
Either build the center leg as a full trestle and attach it the way you did the ends, or attach the middle header at this stage and add the leg next. Center it along the span so it actually supports the middle of the seat, not just decorates it.
Fasten the center leg at the middle. For extra rigidity on a long bench, tie the center leg into the outside trestles with a stretcher — worth doing if the bench will see hard use.
Optionally frame the bench top with the angled end aprons for extra support and a finished edge, cutting the 25°/17° ends so they wrap the top cleanly. Ease all the edges and apply an exterior finish or let a cedar version silver naturally.
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