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This dresser's whole look depends on the 1x8 boards reading as a uniform, gapless surface across the top and drawer faces, which means consistency in the cutting is more important here than on almost any other build in the catalog. Set up a stop block on the miter saw before cutting a single piece — cutting by measuring and marking each board individually all but guarantees small variations that show up as uneven gaps once everything's assembled.
The two leg-and-side-panel assemblies are built as true mirror images of each other, with the pocket holes on the inside faces hidden and facing backward — get this handedness right before you start drilling, because a pair of identical (rather than mirrored) side assemblies will put visible pocket holes on the wrong side. The center front leg and the drawer blocking behind it need to land perfectly square to the rest of the case, since that's what the center drawer pair's slides mount to — check this with diagonal measurements before moving on, the same square check that matters on every wide drawer case.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x8, 8 ft | 5 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 5 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 12 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 48" x 48" | 1 each |
| Euro-style drawer slides, 16", white | 4 pair |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 5/8" | 1 box |
| Sandpaper, medium and fine grit | 6 sheet |
| Stain and clear poly | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top boardsPine | 9 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 16" |
| Top filler piecesPine | 3 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| Top trimPineMeasure and cut to fit the actual glued-up top. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 65 1/4" |
| Side panelsPine | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 24 1/2" |
| LegsPine | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| Frame railsPine | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 63 3/4" |
| Middle frame railPine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 63 3/4" |
| Front middle legPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 24 1/2" |
| Back blockingPine | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Front blockingPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Drawer sidesPine | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16" |
| Drawer fronts/backsPineMeasure each opening individually — width equals the opening minus 2-1/2". | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 28 3/8" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood | 4 | 1/4" × 16" × 29 7/8" |
| Drawer facesPineFour boards join to make each of the four drawer faces. | 16 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 11 1/4" |
Buy 21 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
5 boards
Set up a stop block on the miter saw and cut every top board to length so all pieces match exactly. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on all but one of the top pieces, and clamp each joint as you attach them together with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Measure and cut 1x2 trim to fit the front and back edges of the top, attaching with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails. Cut 1x4 filler boards to match the tabletop's cut lengths and attach with brad nails and glue.
Cut the 1x8 side panels and join them together along the center with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides and top for attaching to the legs and top in later steps. Build two identical side panel assemblies.
Set the pocket hole jig to 1-1/2". Drill two pocket holes in the top of each leg, keeping the hole on the inside leg about 1" in so it doesn't get covered by the side panel. Attach the side panels to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Build the two leg-and-side assemblies as true mirror images of each other — pocket holes in the legs face backward, pocket holes in the center panel face inward and stay hidden. Get the handedness right before drilling.
Attach the leg assemblies to the top using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If there's any width difference between the two sides, align the fronts perfectly and leave any discrepancy at the back where it won't be noticed.
Check the whole assembly for square by measuring opposite diagonals before this step — the legs need to be genuinely square (not a parallelogram) to the top before the framing goes in. Attach the inner framing rails to the 2x4 legs with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails, keeping consistent spacing and rechecking for square as you go.
The center legs carry the drawer slides for the middle drawer pair, so they need to be square to the whole project — measure carefully. The front middle leg is 1x4 stock; the back is 2x4.
Cut blocking from 1x2 stock and attach to the inside back of the dresser with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. Attach 1x3 blocking to fill in the front leg area the same way.
Cut drawer sides to 16" long. Measure each drawer opening individually and subtract 2-1/2" for the front and back pieces — this should come out close to 28-3/8", but always measure your actual opening rather than trusting the number. Cut drawer bottoms to 16" x (opening minus 1"). Build the boxes with pocket holes or 1-1/4" brad nails, attaching the bottoms with 5/8" brad nails and glue.
Install the slides so the front of the slide is flush with the front of the blocking boards, leaving about 1/2" of clearance under the slide so the drawer doesn't rub on the framing.
Cut the drawer face boards and join them together with pocket holes. Carefully attach the assembled faces to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4" brad nails, then secure further from the inside with 1-1/4" screws. This step goes easier with a second person holding the face in position while you fasten it.
Sand with medium, then fine grit sandpaper. Stain and apply clear poly.
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5 boards
1 board
1 board
5 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →