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The 2x2 legs are structural and decorative at once — they're what the face-frame look is built around, and they're also strong enough that the shelves and top load straight into them rather than into thinner cabinet sides. Fixed shelves are the deliberate choice here rather than adjustable pins, specifically because a fixed shelf gives you something solid to nail the back planking to; an adjustable shelf would leave gaps behind it at every possible height.
A pocket-hole jig is genuinely optional on this build — the source gives a direct substitute (predrilled holes and 2-3/4" trim screws) for every joint a jig would otherwise handle, which is worth knowing before assuming this one requires the tool.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Planking or 1x4s for back, 8 ftTongue-and-groove boards or 1/4" panel also work. | 3 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Trim screws, 2-3/4"Substitute if not using a pocket hole jig. | 1 box |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPine 1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 60 3/4" |
| Side trimPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| LegsPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 62 3/4" |
| Top supports and bottom shelf trimPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| ShelvesPine 1x12 | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 21 1/2" |
| Shelf trimPine 1x2 | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Top boardsPine 1x3 | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 26" |
| Back plankingPlanking or 1x4s | 7 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 60" |
Buy 18 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
3 boards
7 boards
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the side edges of the sides (add holes along the top edge too, for attaching the top later). Attach the side trim to the outsides.
If you don't have a pocket hole jig, carefully predrill and use 2-3/4" trim screws to attach the legs in the next step instead.
Attach the 2x2 legs to the sides.
Attach the top support pieces.
Build the bottom shelf first, the same way as the other shelves in the next step, then attach it to the bottom of the case.
Build the remaining shelves and insert into the bookcase. Fixed shelves are recommended over adjustable ones here, since they give you something solid to attach the back planking to.
Build the top with 3/4" pocket holes and attach to the case. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, cut three 2x2s 11-1/4" long and screw between the top supports, then use these as an attachment point for the top boards instead.
Add the back planking, nailing to each fixed shelf. Tongue-and-groove boards or plain 1x4s both work as lower-cost substitutes.
Sand every surface and finish.
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