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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Lay three 1x6s down on a flat surface with tops and bottoms even, and glue them edge to edge; let them set so they hold as one panel. Attach the 1x2 trim on top, overhanging the ends by 3/4". Build both sides.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the 1x3 back supports and attach with pocket screws, pockets exposed on the back of the cabinet. These tie the two sides together.
Build the front face frame on a flat surface with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws, then nail and glue it to the front. Take a moment to confirm the cabinet is square by measuring the diagonals — the drawers depend on it.
Nail and glue the back planks to the sides and top/bottom supports — these give the drawer slides something to fasten to while keeping a finished edge (no exposed plywood on the back). Then measure and cut the front trim to fit and nail and glue it in place.
For full-size drawers that clear the plumbing, build the boxes with pocket holes and glue-and-nail the plywood bottoms on. If a drawer has to dodge the trap, keep the same basic cuts but move the back forward past the plumbing and box out the corners as needed.
Mount the drawer slides to the 1x2 cleat at the front and the back socket at the rear, then hang the drawers and check for smooth travel. Add the bin pulls.
Build the top from 1x boards pocket-holed together, leaving an opening for your sink — the source used 1x4s front and back with 1x12s on the sides. Build it last, once you have the sink in hand.
Finish the whole vanity with a moisture-tolerant paint or topcoat.