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The sides here are three 1x6 boards glued edge to edge on a flat surface rather than a plywood panel, giving the vanity a genuine board-and-batten look once the 1x2 trim caps the top. Build the front face frame as its own flat assembly, then nail and glue it to the front, checking for square by comparing diagonal measurements before moving on.
The interior back pieces aren't just a finished surface — they're what the drawer slides actually attach to, while still hiding the plywood-free construction so no raw edges show from behind. Build full-size drawers with pocket holes where there's no plumbing to work around; where a drawer has to clear plumbing, keep the same basic cuts but box out the corners and set the back where it needs to pass the pipe.
The top is intentionally open-ended — build it to suit your own sink, using 1x boards pocket-holed together with a cutout sized to your actual sink rather than a fixed opening. Drawer slides mount to the front 1x2 cleat and a rear end socket; follow your hardware's own instructions for spacing.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6, 8 ft | 5 each |
| 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1/4" plywood panel, 48" x 48" | 1 each |
| Euro style drawer slides, 16 in, pair | 3 set |
| Drawer slide back sockets | 3 each |
| Bin pulls | 3 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 100 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 5 oz |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side panel boards1x6, 8 ft | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 31 3/4" |
| Side trim1x2, 8 ft | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| Back supports1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 32" |
| Front legs1x4, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 31 3/4" |
| Face frame, top/bottom1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Face frame, middle1x2, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Back panel boards1x6, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 31 3/4" |
| Drawer slide supports1x2, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 31 3/4" |
| Front trim1x2, 8 ftCut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 35" |
| Large drawer sides1x6, 8 ft | 4 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16" |
| Large drawer front/back1x6, 8 ft | 4 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| Top drawer sides1x4, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| Top drawer front/back1x4, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood panel, 48" x 48" | 3 | 1/4" × 16" × 25 1/4" |
Buy 13 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
Glue three 1x6 boards edge to edge on a flat surface for each side. Attach the 1x2 trim on top, overhanging the ends by 3/4", leaving a 2-1/2" space under the bottom trim.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the back support boards and attach with pocket hole screws, exposed on the back.
Build the face frame flat with pocket holes and pocket hole screws, then nail and glue to the front of the cabinet. Check for square with diagonal measurements.
Nail and glue the back panel boards to the sides and top/bottom supports, giving the drawer slides something solid to attach to.
Measure and cut the front trim to fit, then nail and glue in place.
Build the drawer boxes with pocket holes, boxing out corners around plumbing where needed. Nail and glue the plywood bottoms on.
Attach the drawer slides to the front 1x2 cleat and a rear end socket, following the hardware's instructions.
Build the top from 1x boards pocket-holed together, leaving an opening sized to your own sink.
Sand all surfaces, apply primer and paint or stain and poly, and add the bin pulls.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →