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A round farmhouse table built on a center pedestal and four splayed 2x4 leg frames — an octagon tabletop assembled first, then cut into a circle with a jigsaw.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Center pedestal sides | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 28 1/2" | 2x6, 8 ft or stud length | ☐ |
| Center pedestal ends | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 2 1/2" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg outer frame, long | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg angled braces One end cut at 45° bevel. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 21" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg cross pieces | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg feet | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 8" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg angled feet Both ends 45° bevel, ends NOT parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 21 1/4" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Leg angled tops One end cut at 45° bevel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 15 7/8" | 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | ☐ |
| Tabletop octagon boards Both ends cut at 22.5°, ends NOT parallel. | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 24 7/8" | 1x6, 10 ft | ☐ |
| Tabletop fill boards, long | 5 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 60" | 1x6, 10 ft | ☐ |
| Tabletop fill boards, medium-long | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 57" | 1x6, 10 ft | ☐ |
| Tabletop fill boards, medium | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 47" | 1x6, 10 ft | ☐ |
| Tabletop fill boards, short | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 35" | 1x6, 10 ft | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 1x6, 10 ft Cut longest boards first, work down to smallest with the scraps. | 7 each | ☐ |
| 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft) | 4 each | ☐ |
| 2x6, 8 ft or stud length | 1 each | ☐ |
| Self-tapping wood screws, 2-3/4" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Self-tapping wood screws, 1-1/4" | 40 each | ☐ |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" and 1-1/4" | 40 each | ☐ |
| 3/4" plywood scraps Recommended for the octagon ring reinforcement. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft), 2x6, 8 ft or stud length, Self-tapping wood screws, 2-3/4", Wood glue
Build the center pedestal from the 2x6 sides and 2x4 ends, using 2-3/4" screws for a paint-grade finish, or 2" brad nails and glue, or pocket holes for stain grade. Set aside.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft), Self-tapping wood screws, 2-3/4", Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" and 1-1/4"
Build the four outside leg frames with 2-3/4" self-tapping screws or pocket holes set for 1-1/2" material and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw. Materials: 2x4, 12 ft (or 6 @ 8 ft), Self-tapping wood screws, 2-3/4"
Attach the angled brace pieces together first with 2-3/4" screws, then attach to the cross piece. Attach this assembly inside the leg frame, and add the bottom foot.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Self-tapping wood screws, 2-3/4"
Once all four leg assemblies are built, attach them to the center pedestal with 2-3/4" screws, keeping everything flush to the top.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 1x6, 10 ft, Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" and 1-1/4"
Cut all the tabletop boards and mark their centers. Lay them out, line up, and attach together with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Keep screws away from where the circle cut line will fall in the next step.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Jigsaw. Materials: Self-tapping wood screws, 1-1/4", 3/4" plywood scraps, Wood glue
Attach a plywood-scrap octagon ring to the underside of the tabletop with glue and 1-1/4" screws for reinforcement, then mark and cut the circle out with a jigsaw — watch a reference video for the technique before attempting it freehand.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Random Orbit Sander
Attach the finished base to the underside of the round tabletop. Sand the whole table and finish.