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The whole rack — bottom, back, and two sides — comes from one 1x3 board, which makes this a good project for using up a single leftover length rather than buying anything new.
The back piece is deliberately angled rather than vertical, which is what tilts stored magazines forward so their covers face out and stay browsable, instead of standing straight up where only the spines show.
Pocket holes go in the bottom and back pieces only — the two side pieces stay clean on their visible faces, since they're what someone sees head-on when the rack is mounted.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine board, 1x3, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 12 each |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Wood filler | 1 each |
| Paint | 4 oz |
| Hanging hardware or Command strips | 1 set |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 10" |
| Back1x3Angled to tilt magazines forward, covers facing out. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12" |
| Sides1x3Angled top edge to match the back piece. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 9" |
Buy 1 board at 8 ft.
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the 1x3 board into a bottom, a back, and two angled side pieces, sized to your preferred depth and height.
Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back pieces only — leave the side pieces clean since they're the visible faces.
Glue and pocket-screw the bottom piece to the two side pieces.
Glue and pocket-screw the back piece to the sides at its angle, tilting magazines forward so covers face out.
Fill any exposed pocket holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and paint.
Mount to the wall with hanging hardware or strong adhesive strips.
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