Mudroom Lockers – with CHARACTER!
Step-by-step build — 21 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
1Break down sheet goods
Using a Track saw, cut down all the sheet goods.

2layout the dado's and grooves
Layout and cut the dado's and grooves. we use a dado stack on the upper carcasses and a router on the bench carcasses.

3Assembly carcasses
Glue and assembly the carcasses.
Tip: Checking for square You will want to assembly the carcasses on a flat surface. It helps to assemble it on a square surface, regardless you should check for square any adjustments can be made by clamping at an angle pulling one side into square.

4Prep Rough stock
Plane the rough lumber to desired thickness. This is really an ongoing process only planning the boards needed at the time.

5Glue up bench seats
We prepped the edges for the bench seat and then, biscuit, glued and clamped the bench seats.

6Layout and cut face frames
After planing the boards down to desired thickness, We laid out all the individual components on the board, cut them the width and length and then placed them where they per their assembly.

7Pocket holes
Drill pocket holes in the rails of the face frames.

8Assemble face frames
Glue, clamp and screw together face frame.

9Glue the Face frame to the carcass
Glue the face of the carcass position and clamp the face frame to the carcass.
Tip: Keeping the face frame in place Use a hammer a few brad nails into the carcass and cut the heads off, prior to adding the face frame, this will keep it elevated so you can position it where you want. It will also keep it from sliding around while you clamp it.

10Glue up boards for the arches
Glue up boards for the arches, cut to final dimension on a track saw or tablesaw. Then cut on a band saw and sand or use a template with a router/pattern bit to have consistent arches.

11Pocket hole the arches and rails
Pocket hole arches and rails for upper lockers.

12Assemble face frame
Join the face frames together.

13Glue face frames to upper lockers
Glue face frames to upper lockers, it seemed impossible to clamp the long stiles, so we drilled counterbores and screwed them to the carcass.
Tip: Bracing wide Stile I created square brackets for the adjoining stiles, the board are so wide and had a slight twist, so we the brackets gave them a little extra clamping surface. You can see them peaking in the upper right hand photo.

14Installing the lowers
This is very similar to installing cabinets. Making sure the are level vertically and horizontally, shim and screw using cabinet screws.

15Install the uppers and trim out.
We provided 1:1 prints if printed on a Size C Sheet, you can use these as a template to cut out the upper arches, or you can draw them out and then use that as a template.
Tip: Fluting you can route the fluting using a radius template for a router or leave them plain, we opted to have the extra detail.

16Creating fluting with a palm router
Using a palm router and a edge guide we routed the fluting into the tall columns.

17Trim out
We glues and nailed the trim to the face frames.

18Add crown moulding
We created the column crown moulding with the router and then glued and nailed them to the columns.

19Route the bullnose
Using a Bullnose router bit we routed the face of a 7/8" board, then cut the pieces on the table saw.

20Shelf face details
Glue and nail the shelf face details.

21All done!
You're ready for prime an paint!
