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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the side rails, positioned within 1" of the top or bottom edge so the cleat you're about to attach doesn't cover them. Glue and screw the 2x2 cleats to the inside face of each side rail with 2-1/2" screws — about one every 8–12". Build two identical side rails.
Attach the top and bottom rails between the two side rails with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue, forming the outer box. Work upside down — it's easier to see the joints this way.
Set the miter saw to 45° and cut the angled corner braces from a longer scrap 2x6 — cut the small piece off the end of a longer board rather than trying to hold a short offcut steady near the blade. Drill pocket holes as marked, predrill for the leg lag screws, and install a corner leg into each brace with 4" lag screws and glue.
Fit the corner leg assemblies inside the bed frame at each corner and attach through the pocket holes. Add extra 2-1/2" screws through the small angled ends into the 2x6 frame for a stronger joint.
Cut the center support(s) to length and drill two pocket holes on each end. Attach a center leg to each end with 2-1/2" screws and glue, then place the assembly inside the bed frame and attach through the pocket holes to the top and bottom rails.
Lay the slats across the frame with about a 4" gap between them for most standard mattresses — check your own mattress's support requirements, since some need tighter spacing. Attach each slat with the shorter self-tapping screws.
Sand every surface before moving the frame into the bedroom.