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A close cousin of the hairpin-leg platform bed elsewhere in this catalog, built the same way — a 2x6 box frame with 2x2 cleats to carry the slats, and a center support running the bed's length — but standing on thick (2"+ diameter) round wood dowel legs instead of steel hairpins. The dowel legs read heavier and more traditional; the hairpin version reads more mid-century. Pick whichever fits the room, since the frame underneath is otherwise the same idea.
The angled corner pieces are the one detail worth slowing down for: they're cut at 45° from scrap 2x6, and it's safer to cut these small angled pieces from a longer board clamped to the saw deck than to try to hold a short offcut steady by hand near the blade. Each size below is a genuinely separate cut list, not one frame scaled by a formula — larger sizes get more center-support legs (one for twin, two for full/queen, three for king and California king) because a wider bed needs more mid-span backup or the slats sag under a mattress. Build only the size you need.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ftQuantity for full/queen/king sizes — twin needs only 3. | 4 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ftCenter support and center legs — quantity varies by size, up to 3 for king/California king. | 2 each |
| Round wood dowel legs, 2" diameter or largerCut to 7-1/4" for the corner legs and center legs alike. | 30 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftMattress slats — quantity scales with bed width. | 8 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Self-tapping screws, 1-1/2"For attaching mattress slats. | 1 box |
| Lag screws, 4-1/2" or longerAttaches the leg assemblies to the bed frame. | 4 each |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 4 sheet |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side rails (twin, 75" bed)PineFull/queen use 80"; king/Cal king use 80"/84" respectively. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 75" |
| CleatsPineMatch to side rail length for the size being built. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 75" |
| Top and bottom rails (twin, 38" wide)PineFull: 57"; Queen: 63"; King: 79"; Cal King: 75". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 41" |
| Angled corner bracesPineBoth ends cut at 45°, ends not parallel — long point to long point. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Center support (twin, 1 needed)PineFull/queen/king/Cal king need 2, matched to bed length. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 75" |
| Corner legsRound wood dowel | 4 | 2" × 2" × 7 1/4" |
| Center legs (twin, 2 needed)PineFull/queen need 4; king/Cal king need 6. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 10 1/4" |
| Mattress slats (twin, 12 needed)PineFull: 8 @ 54"; Queen: 8 @ 60"; King: 12 @ 76"; Cal King: 12 @ 72". | 12 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 38" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
4 boards
2 boards
2 boards
6 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the side rails, positioned within 1" of the top or bottom edge so the cleat you're about to attach doesn't cover them. Glue and screw the 2x2 cleats to the inside face of each side rail with 2-1/2" screws — about one every 8–12". Build two identical side rails.
Attach the top and bottom rails between the two side rails with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue, forming the outer box. Work upside down — it's easier to see the joints this way.
Set the miter saw to 45° and cut the angled corner braces from a longer scrap 2x6 — cut the small piece off the end of a longer board rather than trying to hold a short offcut steady near the blade. Drill pocket holes as marked, predrill for the leg lag screws, and install a corner leg into each brace with 4" lag screws and glue.
Fit the corner leg assemblies inside the bed frame at each corner and attach through the pocket holes. Add extra 2-1/2" screws through the small angled ends into the 2x6 frame for a stronger joint.
Cut the center support(s) to length and drill two pocket holes on each end. Attach a center leg to each end with 2-1/2" screws and glue, then place the assembly inside the bed frame and attach through the pocket holes to the top and bottom rails.
Lay the slats across the frame with about a 4" gap between them for most standard mattresses — check your own mattress's support requirements, since some need tighter spacing. Attach each slat with the shorter self-tapping screws.
Sand every surface before moving the frame into the bedroom.
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