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A compact modern dining/accent chair with subtly raked back legs and a solid panel seat. Pocket-hole joinery; the 5° angles do the styling.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back legs Ends mitered at 5° off square, short point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 28" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Front legs | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Side aprons One end mitered down 5° off square. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 1/4" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Front/back aprons | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Back rest uprights Bottom end mitered 15°. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 6" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Back rest top rail | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Back rest bottom rail | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Seat Notch back corners 1-1/2" x 1-1/2". | 1 | 3/4" × 18" × 18" | pine panel | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft Legs and back rest uprights. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x3, 8 ft Aprons. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 and 1x4 scrap (15 in) Back rest rails and corner bracing. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pine project panel, 18 in x 18 in Seat — or join 1x stock to 18" x 18". | 1 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 2 in | 1 box | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in | 1 box | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle | ☐ |
| Wood filler | 1 each | ☐ |
| Finish | 1 quart | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 1x3, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in, Wood glue
Start with the front legs and pocket-screw the front apron to them, using a scrap of 1/4" plywood as a spacer to inset the apron 1/4" from the leg faces. Attach the side aprons to the front legs the same way. Then rest a level on a side apron as you fasten it to the back legs, so the seat frame stays level even though the back legs are raked 5°. Finally attach the back apron. If you don't have a jig, predrill and countersink — and add corner bracing.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw. Materials: 1x2 and 1x4 scrap (15 in), Wood screws, 2 in, Wood glue
Cut corner braces from scrap 1x3 and fit them into the corners of the seat frame. Add them even if you used pocket screws — on a chair that takes a person's full weight and side loads, the extra bracing is cheap insurance against a joint working loose.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Miter Saw, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2, 8 ft, 1x2 and 1x4 scrap (15 in), Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in, Wood glue
Build the back rest by attaching the top and bottom rails to the two 15°-mitered uprights. Pocket screws or predrilled-and-countersunk screws both work. Center the rails on the uprights, leaving a 3/8" gap on the front and back. The 15° kick is what makes the chair comfortable to lean into.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Pine project panel, 18 in x 18 in, Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in, Wood filler, Finish
Cut the seat to 18" x 18" (a project panel, or join 1x stock edge to edge with pocket holes). Notch the back corners 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" to clear the back legs — a square notch is fine, the 5° back-angle notch is optional and can be skipped.
Attach the seat from underneath through the aprons with pocket screws, or screw down through the top into the aprons. Fill holes, sand, and finish.