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An asymmetric bookcase — one open end, one closed end with a small secondary shelf — that appears to float above the floor on a recessed base.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 47 1/4" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Bottom | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 46 1/2" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Middle divider | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 24 1/4" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Closed end | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 25 3/4" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Long shelf | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 37" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Small shelf sides | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 26 1/2" | 1x10 | ☐ |
| Small shelf | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/2" × 8 3/4" | 3/4" plywood/MDF | ☐ |
| Side trim | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 37 3/4" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Closed end trim | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Small shelf trim | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 17" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Floating base sides | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 46 1/2" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Floating base ends | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 12 1/2" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 1x10 board, 5 ft (Pine) | 1 each | ☐ |
| 3/4" plywood (for staining) or MDF (for painting), ripped 15-1/2" wide, 8 ft sheet | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 4 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 2" (or 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws) | 40 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 2" | 40 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Edge banding Only needed if staining rather than painting. | 1 roll | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 3/4" plywood (for staining) or MDF (for painting), ripped 15-1/2" wide, 8 ft sheet, Wood screws, 2" (or 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws), Wood glue
Measure and mark all the joints on every board. If using a pocket-hole jig, drill 1-1/4" pocket holes; if using 2" wood screws, predrill. Add glue and screw together.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set. Materials: 3/4" plywood (for staining) or MDF (for painting), ripped 15-1/2" wide, 8 ft sheet
Decide between shelf pins (drill holes matched to your pins for an adjustable shelf) or a fixed shelf attached with glue and screws the same way as the box.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x10 board, 5 ft, Wood glue
Use 2" finish nails and glue to attach the small shelf sides to the open end of the bookshelf, leaving 3/4" of clearance under the bottom shelf.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Drill Bit Set. Materials: 3/4" plywood (for staining) or MDF (for painting), ripped 15-1/2" wide, 8 ft sheet
Add the small shelf with screws and glue for a fixed shelf, or drill shelf-pin holes for an adjustable one.
Attach the closed end trim to the closed end (and to the shelf too, if it's not fixed). Use 2" finish nails and glue. If using a pocket-hole jig, build the face frame separately first, then nail the whole frame on as one piece.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, Wood glue
Attach the top and bottom trim to the small bookshelf section the same way — build the face frame separately if using a jig, then attach as one piece with 2" finish nails and glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, Wood glue
Attach the small shelf side trim with 2" finish nails and glue. If your shelves are fixed, also nail into them here for added support.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level. Materials: 2x2 board, 8 ft, Wood screws, 2" (or 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws), Wood glue
Use 2" screws and glue to attach the floating base sides to the bottom, then attach the floating base ends to finish the base — set back from the outer case edges so the bookcase reads as slightly elevated off the floor.