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A four-square dining table with 4x4 legs, jigsaw-cut diamond slats between them, and layered molding — mission looks without mortise-and-tenon joinery.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Legs | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29" | 4x4 | ☐ |
| Side rails | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 17" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Diamond slats 2" diamonds cut 3" from each end. | 6 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Center stretcher | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 49 1/2" | 2x4 | ☐ |
| Top cross supports | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 26" | 1x4 | ☐ |
| Tabletop panel | 1 | 3/4" × 26" × 56" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Top frame, long 45° mitered ends, flush with the top. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 57 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Top frame, short 45° mitered ends. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27 1/2" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Apron, long Mitered, set inside the top frame. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 56" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Apron, short | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Base molding trim Mitered around the bottom of each leg. | 16 | 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 5 1/2" | Base molding | ☐ |
| Screen molding trim One inch above the bottom rail. | 16 | 1/4" × 3/4" × 5 1/2" | Screen molding | ☐ |
| Screen molding, screw covers Cover screw heads along the bottom rail. | 2 | 1/4" × 3/4" × 3" | Screen molding | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 4x4 post, 10 ft (Pine or Fir) The four legs. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x4 board, 8 ft (Pine or Fir) | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x4 board, 8 ft (Pine) Diamond slats and top cross supports. | 2 each | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) Top frame and apron. | 4 each | ☐ |
| 3/4" plywood, 26" x 56" Tabletop panel. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Base molding, 3-1/2" wide, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Screen molding, 3/4" wide, 8 ft | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole and wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 50 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 6 oz | ☐ |
| Wood putty | 6 oz | ☐ |
| Stain and polyurethane 3–6 coats of poly if you do a painted-graphic top. | 32 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Miter Saw, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 1x2 board, 8 ft, 3/4" plywood, 26" x 56", Finish nails, 1-1/4", Wood glue, Wood putty
Miter the 57.5" and 27.5" 1x2s and glue-and-nail them around the plywood panel, flush with the top face, to frame it. Then miter the 56" and 26" 1x2s and set them just inside the frame edges to form an apron under the lip. Fill the nail holes and any miter gaps with putty and sand smooth — the corners are where the eye goes.
Tools: Jigsaw, Pencil, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: 1x4 board, 8 ft
Lay out 2" diamonds 3" from the top and bottom of the 1x4 slats, positioned to sit between the slats as shown. Cut them with a jigsaw and sand the openings smooth. Do the layout identically on all six or the base looks hand-cut.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 4x4 post, 10 ft, 2x4 board, 8 ft, 1x4 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole and wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2"
Assemble each pair of legs with the 2x4 side rails and the slat panel between them. Using the pocket-hole jig, fasten the rails 5" from the bottom with two 2-1/2" screws each. Check each unit for level and square before moving to the second.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Level. Materials: 2x4 board, 8 ft, 1x4 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole and wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2", Wood glue
Connect the two leg units with the 49.5" center stretcher, centered on the lower 2x4s and glued and screwed with 2-1/2" screws from the outside. Add the 1x4 cross supports across the top of the base, centered, to carry the top. Check level again — the floor finds every error now.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Miter Saw, Random Orbit Sander. Materials: Base molding, 3-1/2" wide, 8 ft, Screen molding, 3/4" wide, 8 ft, Finish nails, 1-1/4", Wood glue, Wood putty
Miter the base molding around the bottom of each leg and glue-and-nail it on. An inch above the bottom rail, run the mitered screen molding around. Finally, tuck the 3" screen molding pieces over the structural screw heads on the bottom rail so nothing shows. Putty, sand, and you're ready to finish.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Pocket-hole and wood screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2", Stain and polyurethane
Prime and paint, or stain the whole piece — the source table even projects a graphic onto the top, traces it, and paints it before staining and topcoating with several coats of poly. When the finish is cured, set the top on the base and screw up from underneath through the cross supports with 1-1/4" screws.