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Step-by-step build — 5 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along one edge of six of the seven 1x8s, about every 10", and join the planks face-flush with 1-1/4" pocket screws. Clamp each seam flat as you drive — the headboard is the face of this bed and a stepped seam will catch light forever.
Cut the 1x3 top rail to match the panel's real length and pocket-screw it across the top, holes inward. Cut the three verticals to fit and attach the same way. The back frame is what keeps seven planks acting as one panel.
Sand and finish the headboard NOW, flat on sawhorses.
Screw a 2x4 ledge to each 2x6 rail, flush to the BOTTOM edge, with 2-1/2" screws — the step up from ledge to rail top is what hides the mattress edge. Add a 2x6 stub leg at the end of each ledge, square to the rail.
Build the second rail as a MIRROR of the first; two copies give you one rail with its ledge facing out of the bed. Then hold each rail against the headboard, trace the joint, and PRE-DRILL the connection holes — bedroom assembly becomes screwdriver work.
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes in one end of each 6" footboard leg and attach them to the footboard, inset 1-1/2" from the ends, flush to the bottom — 2-1/2" pocket screws. Build the center rail: 2x4 with a 12" block at each end and the 2x6 center leg.
Finish these flat too. Every part of this bed gets its finish before the bedroom sees it.
Carry the four sections in. Screw the rails to the headboard through the pre-drilled holes, attach the footboard to the rail legs, and screw the center rail to headboard and footboard — all with the 2-1/2" star-drive screws.
Lay the ten slats across the ledges and center rail with even spacing and fasten each with the 1-5/8" screws. Mattress on. The frame comes apart with the same screwdriver the next time you move — which is the entire point.