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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Draw your curve pattern on one 1x10 piece and cut it out carefully with a jigsaw. Use this first piece as a template for the second — trace it, cut, then clamp both together and sand the curved edges as one unit until they match.
Lay out the end pieces including the curved fronts. Predrill pocket holes if you have a jig, or predrill and countersink and use 2-5/8" trim screws with glue. Build two of these, matched and square to each other — clamps make this stage much easier.
Join the two leg-and-end assemblies together with the top supports, using pocket holes or countersunk trim screws and glue.
Attach the top to the sides by screwing up through the top supports into the underside of the top with 1-1/4" screws and glue.
Measure your actual 1x12 width and adjust the shelf side pieces' bottom edge to match — the shelf bottom needs to meet the sides with no gap. Cut the shelf ends from 1x10 stock; if your boards run slightly under 9-1/2" wide it won't matter, since the back is also 1x10. Attach with screws and glue.
Attach the shelf bottoms to the shelf sides and back with screws and glue, keeping outside edges flush.
Position the assembled shelves inside the frame — the fronts rest on the front supports. Use a level to check the sides sit level, then attach with 1-1/4" screws and glue.
Fill exposed holes with wood filler, sand at 120 grit, remove dust with a vacuum and damp cloth, then apply primer or wood conditioner as appropriate followed by your finish coat.