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The curved front pieces are the one part of this console that needs real care, and the plan builds in the fix for getting them to match: cut the first one freehand from your drawn pattern, then use that finished piece as a physical template to trace and cut the second, rather than trying to draw and cut two identical curves independently. Clamp both together afterward and sand the edges as one unit so any small mismatch disappears.
The two triangular shelf side pieces need their bottom edge adjusted to match your actual 1x12 width before you cut them — lumber widths vary slightly between suppliers, and a mismatch here is what would leave a visible gap where the shelf bottom meets the sides.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12 board, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x10 board, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Self-tapping wood screws, 1-1/4" (or pocket-hole screws) | 40 each |
| Trim screws, 2-5/8" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Wood filler and finishing supplies | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Curved fronts1x10Draw and cut the first freehand, then trace it as the template for the second. | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 6" |
| Back legs1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 33" |
| Front legs1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 25" |
| Sides1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 12" |
| Top sides1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6" |
| Front/top supports1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 36 1/2" |
| Top1x10 | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 39" |
| Shelf backs1x10 | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 35" |
| Shelf sides1x10Triangular; adjust the bottom edge to match your actual 1x12 width before cutting. | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Shelf bottoms1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 36 1/2" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
2 boards
4 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Draw your curve pattern on one 1x10 piece and cut it out carefully with a jigsaw. Use this first piece as a template for the second — trace it, cut, then clamp both together and sand the curved edges as one unit until they match.
Lay out the end pieces including the curved fronts. Predrill pocket holes if you have a jig, or predrill and countersink and use 2-5/8" trim screws with glue. Build two of these, matched and square to each other — clamps make this stage much easier.
Join the two leg-and-end assemblies together with the top supports, using pocket holes or countersunk trim screws and glue.
Attach the top to the sides by screwing up through the top supports into the underside of the top with 1-1/4" screws and glue.
Measure your actual 1x12 width and adjust the shelf side pieces' bottom edge to match — the shelf bottom needs to meet the sides with no gap. Cut the shelf ends from 1x10 stock; if your boards run slightly under 9-1/2" wide it won't matter, since the back is also 1x10. Attach with screws and glue.
Attach the shelf bottoms to the shelf sides and back with screws and glue, keeping outside edges flush.
Position the assembled shelves inside the frame — the fronts rest on the front supports. Use a level to check the sides sit level, then attach with 1-1/4" screws and glue.
Fill exposed holes with wood filler, sand at 120 grit, remove dust with a vacuum and damp cloth, then apply primer or wood conditioner as appropriate followed by your finish coat.
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