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Step-by-step build — 8 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Tip: Note: The bottom step has an area of overhang on the front edge. If you are using engineered stair treads for steps, like we were, you want to be sure the bottom steps are cut lengthwise for more strength and stability on the area that overhangs. You’ll see in the photos that the wood grain on the bottom step is going vertical and the wood grain on the top step is going horizontal.
Drill pocket holes as shown in the woodworking plans. We used the Kreg 720 Pro.
With the pocket holes drilled, start assembling the two frame boxes for each step. The Kreg 90-degree Pocket-Hole driver is great here to get into tight spaces. The top and the bottom steps are different sizes, so you’ll have two different size box frames, which support the steps. Once assembled, sand smooth with an orbital sander at 80 grit sandpaper followed by 150 grit.
Using clamps and a tape measure line up the box frames on the bottom of the stair treads. Once lined up clamp them down and attach them securely with 2” finish nails from the top of the steps.
Start adding the legs to the box frame on the top step with the finish nailer using at least four 2 ¼” finish nails in each corner.