Hillary's Locker Cabinet with Charging Cubbies

If you get this box built square and right, your drawers will slide great — take your time, mark all your joints, and check for square at least twice. Measure the actual width of your 1x8 boards to get your drawer face heights, add 1/4" to that number, and cut your cubby dividers to that width for well-fitting drawers.

If you don't have a pocket-hole jig, add the main divider (next step) before assembling the box — you won't be able to fit a drill in there afterward.

Attach the main locker divider with 1-1/4" pocket-hole screws and glue, or with countersunk screws or nails and glue.

Add the sides, top, and bottom shelf using the pocket-hole jig or just screws or nails and glue — the whole box is face framed, so every joint is reinforced.

Attach the back panel to all the fixed shelves with glue and 1-1/4" finish nails.

Attach the face frame stiles and rails to the front of the cabinet, keeping every joint flush and square.

Add the top and bottom trim to the cabinet.

Add the crown trim to finish the top of the cabinet.

The trick with these drawers is building each one to fit its own opening. For a first attempt, leave about 1/8" clearance on each side; if you're confident in your cuts, 1/16" gives a tighter fit. Tack the plywood bottom onto each drawer box. For the charging drawer, drill a hole through the back panel to route a cable through.

Each drawer opening may be slightly different, so build and fit each drawer to its own cubby rather than to a single measurement. Rub candle wax on the drawer bottoms after finishing for the smoothest slide.

Slide each drawer box into its cubby. Cut the drawer faces to fit and position them over the drawer boxes, then nail on and add the knobs.

Add the coat hooks. This cabinet is tall and top-heavy — secure it to a wall stud behind it with wall anchors or lag screws to prevent tipping before it's used.