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This vanity carries its entire weight on lag screws into wall studs, not on legs or a toe-kick base — a genuinely floating cabinet, sized here for a 22" deep by 37" wide vanity top but adjustable to fit others. Pocket-hole the bottom to the sides first, then attach the 1x3 top trim with its nicest edge facing forward, since the pocket holes here will be covered by the vanity top later anyway.
The back pieces aren't decorative — they're the main structural support that carries the cabinet's hanging load, so use extra pocket holes and glue rather than treating them as an afterthought. Before permanently installing the vertical dividers, set the actual vanity top and sink in place and mark for any cutout needed — this build required cutting into the tops of the dividers with a jigsaw to clear the sink, and that fit has to be checked against your real hardware, not the plan's stated dimensions.
Shelves aren't structural, so they're glued and nailed rather than pocket-holed, keeping the interior free of visible screws. Hang the cabinet with 4" lag screws spaced as far apart vertically as possible — one near the top, one near the bottom — since each lag screw needs to support a minimum of 100 lbs on its own for the cabinet to carry real everyday use safely.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheet | 1 each |
| Edge banding, 3/4", 12 ft | 1 each |
| 1x3, 10 ft total | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Cabinet screws, 2" | 20 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Premade cabinet door | 1 each |
| Euro hinges, inset for frameless cabinets, pair | 1 set |
| Vanity top, 22" x 37" | 1 each |
| Lag screws, 4", for hanging to studs | 6 each |
| Wood filler | 2 oz |
| Sandpaper, 120 grit | 3 sheet |
| Cabinet grade paint | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sides3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheet | 2 | 3/4" × 21 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Bottom3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheet | 1 | 3/4" × 21 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Top trim1x3, 10 ft totalPlace the nicest edge outward on the front. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Back support panels3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheet | 2 | 3/4" × 20" × 8" |
| Inner vertical dividers3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheetMay need cutting to clear your actual sink. | 2 | 3/4" × 21 1/2" × 20" |
| Back supports1x3, 10 ft total | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 17" |
| Shelves3/4" plywood, cabinet grade, full sheet | 2 | 3/4" × 8" × 20 1/2" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the bottom and attach to the sides, pocket holes hidden on the bottom. Attach the 1x3 top trim, pocket holes hidden on top, with the nicest edge facing forward.
Attach the back support panels, which carry the cabinet's hanging load, with extra pocket holes and glue.
Place the vanity top and sink on the cabinet before installing the vertical dividers, and mark any cutout needed. Cut into the tops of the dividers with a jigsaw if the sink requires it.
Measure and cut the back support boards to fit, attach in place with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Install the vertical dividers, using the 8" shelf piece as a spacing guide.
Attach the shelves with glue and brad nails to keep the interior free of visible pocket holes or screws.
Hang the cabinet to studs in the wall using the 4" lag screws, spaced as far apart vertically as possible for maximum support.
Edge-band the exposed plywood edges, sand, fill, and finish with cabinet grade paint, then install the door with the euro hinges.
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