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Replace your existing doors or add one in tight spaces!
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stiles | 2 | 3/4" × 3 7/8" × 91" | — | ☐ |
| Rails | 3 | 3/4" × 5" × 34 1/4" | — | ☐ |
| "X" Pieces | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 57" | — | ☐ |
| Panel Pieces | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 91" | — | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Board, 1x6 96" | 10 board | ☐ |
| Board, 1x6 120" | 1 board | ☐ |
| Board, 1x4 120" | 1 board | ☐ |
| Smart Standard - Sliding Door Hardware | 1 each | ☐ |
| Door Pull | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
This door is quite big coming in at 42" wide by 91" tall. You can measure the dimensions of your door opening to customize these plans for your specific needs. I measured the inner opening to get my width and wanted to go a few inches above the top of the trim.
I used Sketchup to design my specific door. You can adjust the dimensions to suit your needs. I color coded the different components of the barn door to help me determine the different sizes. Note: I made my back panel wider than the face frame on purpose. This was because I went back and trimmed the sides to the desired with using a track saw. Keep this in mind if you don't have a track saw.
Use the cut list to cut your rails, stiles and "x" pieces. I used 1x6 pine lumber for all these components.
Cut your "X" piece a little long just to make sure you have some play.
Cut your back panel boards to length and dry fit to check overall width and length.
Using wood glue and clamps, assemble the back panel and let dry.
I used my Kreg Foreman to add pocket holes to the rails first. Using Kreg Clamps and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, assemble the overall frame. You should have a fairly rigid face frame that can be worked on independently of the back panel.
I chose to sand the face frame and back panel separately to help make the process easier. I recommend sanding from 80 grit up to 220 grit.
Once your face frame and back panel are sanded, you can proceed with your stain of choice. I used Dark Walnut by Varathane for this door. I highly recommend using pre-stain conditioner prior to applying stain.
Use wood glue, clamps and a brad nailer to attach the face frame to the back panel. Make sure you wipe off any excess glue before it dries.
Optional Step - I actually made my overall door slightly wider and taller than the finished dimensions. After assembly, I used my Makita Track Saw to square up all the outer edges. This is more of a suggestion but it helps getting perfect edges and a square door.
After squaring and touching up edges, I applied Polycrilic clear coat to the front and back of the door. Let your finish dry and then you are ready to attach the sliding hardware.
There are a lot of sliding/barn door hardware options available. After you find one that you like, follow the instructions from the manufacturer to hang the door.