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A modern Parsons-style dining table with a scrap-wood tabletop and a chunky look built from a hidden 2x2 frame wrapped in 1x3 and 1x2 trim.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Legs | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 29 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| End aprons and under-table supports Two join the leg sets directly; the rest are extra supports under the tabletop. | 5 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 25" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Side aprons | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 55" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Leg and apron trim Cut to fit around each leg and apron face as you wrap them; rip to 2-1/4" wide first for a flush fit over the 2-1/4" legs. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 288" | 1x3 | ☐ |
| Apron trim, narrow faces Cut to fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 120" | 1x2 | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 8 ft (Pine) | 5 each | ☐ |
| 1x3 board, for covering legs and aprons (at least 24 ft total) (Reclaimed-look hardwood or pine) | 24 ft | ☐ |
| 1x2 board, for covering aprons (at least 10 ft total) (Reclaimed-look hardwood or pine) | 10 ft | ☐ |
| Scrap wood, matching thickness, for the tabletop Reclaimed or offcut boards work well here — this is the piece the table is named for. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 60 each | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 8 oz | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2"
Attach two of the 25" 2x2 pieces to the legs to create two leg sets — one 25" piece per set, joining a pair of legs. Use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2 board, 8 ft, Wood glue
Attach the side aprons to the two leg sets, alternating which side the pocket holes are drilled on from one joint to the next — this keeps you from clustering too many pocket holes into the same spot on a leg. Use glue.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig. Materials: 2x2 board, 8 ft, Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2"
Attach the remaining 25" 2x2 supports to the side aprons with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws. Add extra supports beyond what's listed if you're using shorter scrap pieces for the tabletop — every seam in the top needs a support underneath it.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Table Saw. Materials: Scrap wood, matching thickness, for the tabletop, Finish nails, 1-1/4", Wood glue
Use glue and 1-1/4" finish nails to attach the scrap wood boards to the top of the frame. Make sure every board joint lands directly on top of a 2x2 support underneath. You'll likely need to trim some board edges with a circular saw or table saw to get everything to fit together well.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Pocket Hole Jig, Table Saw. Materials: 1x3 board, for covering legs and aprons (at least 24 ft total), 1x2 board, for covering aprons (at least 10 ft total), Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2"
Wrap the legs and aprons — both the ends and the sides — with the 1x3 and 1x2 trim boards, mitering the corners where they meet. A leg measures 2-1/4" wide, while a 1x3 is 2-1/2" wide; using the 1x3 as-is leaves a 1/4" overhang that's barely noticeable, or rip it down to 2-1/4" first for a perfectly flush wrap. Pocket-hole the corners generously — this trim is what gives the legs their visible strength and look, so it needs to be solidly attached, not just decorative.