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Step-by-step build — 5 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Attach two of the 25" 2x2 pieces to the legs to create two leg sets — one 25" piece per set, joining a pair of legs. Use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws.
Attach the side aprons to the two leg sets, alternating which side the pocket holes are drilled on from one joint to the next — this keeps you from clustering too many pocket holes into the same spot on a leg. Use glue.
Attach the remaining 25" 2x2 supports to the side aprons with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket-hole screws. Add extra supports beyond what's listed if you're using shorter scrap pieces for the tabletop — every seam in the top needs a support underneath it.
Use glue and 1-1/4" finish nails to attach the scrap wood boards to the top of the frame. Make sure every board joint lands directly on top of a 2x2 support underneath. You'll likely need to trim some board edges with a circular saw or table saw to get everything to fit together well.
Wrap the legs and aprons — both the ends and the sides — with the 1x3 and 1x2 trim boards, mitering the corners where they meet. A leg measures 2-1/4" wide, while a 1x3 is 2-1/2" wide; using the 1x3 as-is leaves a 1/4" overhang that's barely noticeable, or rip it down to 2-1/4" first for a perfectly flush wrap. Pocket-hole the corners generously — this trim is what gives the legs their visible strength and look, so it needs to be solidly attached, not just decorative.