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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Use glue and 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" brad nails to attach the 1x8 sides to the leg cleats. Line up outside edges carefully, hold flush to the top, and push any discrepancies to the bottom. Repeat to build two identical side assemblies.
Apply glue where the legs overlap the sides and attach with 2" brad nails and glue, keeping outside and top edges flush.
Install the drawer slide cabinet members at exactly the same height and front-set position on both sides — the front (wheel side) is flush to the front edge of the leg cleat. If they aren't installed identically, the drawer will run crooked.
Attach the back board with 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" brad nails and glue.
Measure your actual drawer opening before cutting box parts, and confirm it matches this plan's assumptions (21-1/2" inside width, 3/4" material, 1/2" clearance per side) before trusting the cut list. Build the drawer box, nail and glue the plywood bottom in with 3/4" brad nails, mount the drawer slide members, and test the drawer in the case.
With the drawer opening and closing smoothly, nail the top boards down. Keep everything flush to the front for a modern look, or overhang the front and sides to match a more traditional piece.
Cut the drawer face about 1/4" smaller than the front opening. Glue and nail it to the front of the drawer with 1-1/4" brad nails, leaving an even gap at the top and sides, and avoid nailing where hardware will be placed. Sand and finish.