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This nightstand is a simple 2x4 leg-and-side box built specifically to carry one drawer on euro-style slides, with a 2x8 planked top doing double duty as both the surface and the visual weight of the piece. The side assemblies go together first — 1x8 sides glued and nailed to short 2x4 uprights, held flush at the top with any unevenness pushed to the bottom, which keeps the visible top edge clean without fussing over the invisible one.
The drawer opening is the one place this build asks for real attention: install both drawer slide cabinet members at the exact same height and front-set position on both sides, or the drawer will run crooked no matter how well everything else is built. Before cutting drawer parts, verify your own opening matches the assumptions this cut list is built on — a 21-1/2" inside width, 3/4" material, and 1/2"-per-side slide clearance — and adjust the drawer box size if any of those don't match your actual build.
The top can be kept flush to the front on all sides for a cleaner modern look, or overhung on the front and sides to match a more traditional farmhouse piece — both are legitimate finishes off the same base.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft or longerLegs — cut to match the width of the 1x8 boards. | 1 each |
| 1x8, 8 ftSides, back, and drawer face. | 1 each |
| 2x8, 8 ftTop. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftDrawer box sides. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, 20-1/2" x 19"Drawer bottom. | 1 each |
| Euro-style drawer slides, 18" | 1 set |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 30 each |
| Brad nails, 3/4" | 10 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Leg cleats2x4, 8 ft or longerCut to match the actual width of your 1x8 boards. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 7 1/4" |
| Sides1x8, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 18 1/4" |
| Legs2x4, 8 ft or longer | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
| Back1x8, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 23" |
| Drawer face1x8, 8 ftCut about 1/4" smaller than your actual front opening. | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 22 3/4" |
| Top2x8, 8 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 30" |
| Drawer box sides1x4, 8 ftDo not cut until you measure your actual drawer opening. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18" |
| Drawer box front/back1x4, 8 ftApproximate — measure and adjust to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 19" |
| Drawer bottom1/4" plywood, 20-1/2" x 19" | 1 | 1/4" × 20 1/2" × 19" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Use glue and 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" brad nails to attach the 1x8 sides to the leg cleats. Line up outside edges carefully, hold flush to the top, and push any discrepancies to the bottom. Repeat to build two identical side assemblies.
Apply glue where the legs overlap the sides and attach with 2" brad nails and glue, keeping outside and top edges flush.
Install the drawer slide cabinet members at exactly the same height and front-set position on both sides — the front (wheel side) is flush to the front edge of the leg cleat. If they aren't installed identically, the drawer will run crooked.
Attach the back board with 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" brad nails and glue.
Measure your actual drawer opening before cutting box parts, and confirm it matches this plan's assumptions (21-1/2" inside width, 3/4" material, 1/2" clearance per side) before trusting the cut list. Build the drawer box, nail and glue the plywood bottom in with 3/4" brad nails, mount the drawer slide members, and test the drawer in the case.
With the drawer opening and closing smoothly, nail the top boards down. Keep everything flush to the front for a modern look, or overhang the front and sides to match a more traditional piece.
Cut the drawer face about 1/4" smaller than the front opening. Glue and nail it to the front of the drawer with 1-1/4" brad nails, leaving an even gap at the top and sides, and avoid nailing where hardware will be placed. Sand and finish.
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