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Step-by-step build — 8 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Cut and lay out both side walls at once, in mirror, and confirm the mirror before drilling anything. Mark pocket hole locations, drill 1-1/2" pocket holes two per joint, and assemble with 2-1/2" exterior pocket screws.
The stepped studs and 5° top rail ARE the roof pitch — orient every 5° cut the same way within each wall, opposite between walls.
Cut the two tapered T1-11 panels in mirror and screw them to the INSIDE of each frame with 1-3/4" screws, finished face outward through the framing. Staple 48" poultry fencing over the open run areas and trim the excess.
Paint or stain each panel BEFORE its fencing goes on — the source's tip, and the difference between rolling a flat panel and detail-brushing around wire.
Pocket-hole the back wall panel, finish it, and staple the 24" fencing across its lower section. Build the front wall panel the same way — its big openings become the wire doors later.
Carry the four panels to the coop's final spot and screw the corners together with 2-1/2" screws. Square the assembled frame by diagonals before the final screws go in — the floor panel will lock in whatever shape you leave here.
Build the inner wall frame (pocket holes and glue), face it with its T1-11 panel flush to side and top, and fit it inside the coop with 2-1/2" screws — it's the divider between roost and run.
Then measure and cut the interior 2x4s to fit: floor supports, and the roof support set to MATCH THE SIDE WALLS' ROOF PLANE — the roofing lands on all of it at once, so a proud support here is a dent in the metal later.
Measure, cut, and screw down the 1/2" CDX floor in the roost chamber. The source is explicit that the floor helps the structure — it's the diaphragm that keeps the box square, so screw it to every support it crosses.
Measure each opening and build each 2x4 door frame 1/4" smaller overall (1/8" gap per side). Back doors get T1-11 skins — account for the floor's thickness when placing the skin, per the source. Front doors get poultry fencing stapled to their frames.
Hang everything on the exterior hinges with pulls and two-motion latches. Ten hinges sounds like a lot until you've met a coop with too few doors; you never clean through a hatch you wish were bigger.
Center the two metal panels for even overhang on all four sides and drive the gasketed roofing screws into the four walls and the roof framing — through the flats, snug, not crushed.
The 5° slope is subtle by design; check that it drains AWAY from the run door before you commit the screws. Then introduce the hens to modern architecture.