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Most coops look agricultural; this one looks like the shed a design blog would build — a low-slope (5°) metal roof over a clean T1-11 box, with the coop's two halves under one roofline: an enclosed roost chamber on one side, an open wire run on the other, split by an inner wall with its own T1-11 face.
The construction method is the modern part: PANELIZED. Each of the four walls builds flat as a complete 2x4 frame — pocket holes throughout, 1-1/2" setting, 2-1/2" exterior pocket screws — gets its siding or fencing while horizontal, and then the four finished panels screw together IN THE COOP'S FINAL LOCATION. Two people can raise it in an afternoon, and the source's staging tip (stain or paint panels BEFORE the fencing goes on) saves an hour of cutting-in around wire.
The 5° roof geometry lives in the side walls: their top rails are cut at 5° (91-1/2" long-point-to-short-point) and the stepped studs (53-1/4", 57-3/8", 61") carry the slope. The mirrored T1-11 side panels are cut 40-1/8" at the tall edge tapering to 35-7/8" — cut them in mirror or one panel's rough face ends up outside.
Doors — big front doors for run access, back doors for the roost — are measure-and-cut-to-fit, 1/4" smaller overall than their openings for 1/8" gaps, per the source's estimates-only framing. And the floor plywood is structural, not incidental: the source notes it squares and stiffens the coop, so screw it down properly.
Wire note as always: 'poultry fencing' keeps birds in; where raccoons roam, hardware cloth at reach height keeps everything else out.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ftAll four wall panels, inner wall, doors, and roof framing. | 30 each |
| T1-11 siding, 1/2", 4x8 sheetSide walls, inner wall, and door skins. | 2 each |
| CDX plywood, 1/2", 4x8 sheetThe coop floor — it also squares the structure. | 1 each |
| Metal roofing panels, 36" x 96" coverage | 2 each |
| Roofing screws, 1-3/4", gasketed | 50 each |
| Poultry fencing, 48" x 16 ftRun walls. Hardware cloth upgrade where predators are clever. | 1 each |
| Poultry fencing, 24" x 16 ftBack wall bottom and front door panels. | 1 each |
| Staples for fencing | 200 each |
| Exterior screws, 1-3/4", star driveSiding to framing. | 100 each |
| Exterior screws, 2-1/2", star drivePanel-to-panel assembly. | 100 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2", exterior | 100 each |
| Exterior hinges | 10 each |
| Exterior pulls | 4 each |
| Gate latchesTwo-motion raccoon-resistant style. | 4 each |
| Exterior paint or stainApplied to panels BEFORE fencing goes on. | 1 qt |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side wall top rails2x4Both ends 5° off square, ends parallel, long point to short point — the roof slope. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 91 1/2" |
| Side wall bottom rails2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 91 1/8" |
| Side studs, short2x4One end 5°, long point. The stepped studs carry the slope: 53-1/4", 57-3/8", 61". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 53 1/4" |
| Side studs, middle2x4One end 5°. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 57 3/8" |
| Side studs, tall2x4One end 5°. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 61" |
| Side rails, mid2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 43 1/4" |
| Side T1-11 panelsT1-11Tapering to 35-7/8" at the short edge — CUT IN MIRROR. | 2 | 1/2" × 48" × 40 1/8" |
| Back wall rails2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 72" |
| Back wall studs2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 52 7/8" |
| Back wall mid rail2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 65" |
| Back wall stub2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 7/8" |
| Front wall rails2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 72" |
| Front wall studs2x4 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 61" |
| Inner wall rails2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 69" |
| Inner wall studs2x4 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 33 1/4" |
| Inner wall T1-11T1-11 | 1 | 1/2" × 48" × 40 1/4" |
| Interior framing2x4ABOUT 68" — measure and cut to fit inside the enclosed area. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 68" |
| Roof support2x4Set to match the side walls' roof plane. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 69" |
| Floor1/2" CDXMeasure and cut to fit — it squares the coop. | 1 | 1/2" × 48" × 69" |
| Back door frames2x4Estimates — doors are built to openings minus 1/4" overall. Four at 28-5/8", four at 23-1/2". | 8 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 5/8" |
| Front door frames2x4Estimates — four at 60-3/4", four at 23-1/2". Cut to YOUR openings. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 60 3/4" |
| Back door skinsT1-11About — cut to your doors. | 2 | 1/2" × 26" × 26" |
Buy 40 boards at 8 ft.
36 boards
Cut and lay out both side walls at once, in mirror, and confirm the mirror before drilling anything. Mark pocket hole locations, drill 1-1/2" pocket holes two per joint, and assemble with 2-1/2" exterior pocket screws.
The stepped studs and 5° top rail ARE the roof pitch — orient every 5° cut the same way within each wall, opposite between walls.
Cut the two tapered T1-11 panels in mirror and screw them to the INSIDE of each frame with 1-3/4" screws, finished face outward through the framing. Staple 48" poultry fencing over the open run areas and trim the excess.
Paint or stain each panel BEFORE its fencing goes on — the source's tip, and the difference between rolling a flat panel and detail-brushing around wire.
Pocket-hole the back wall panel, finish it, and staple the 24" fencing across its lower section. Build the front wall panel the same way — its big openings become the wire doors later.
Carry the four panels to the coop's final spot and screw the corners together with 2-1/2" screws. Square the assembled frame by diagonals before the final screws go in — the floor panel will lock in whatever shape you leave here.
Build the inner wall frame (pocket holes and glue), face it with its T1-11 panel flush to side and top, and fit it inside the coop with 2-1/2" screws — it's the divider between roost and run.
Then measure and cut the interior 2x4s to fit: floor supports, and the roof support set to MATCH THE SIDE WALLS' ROOF PLANE — the roofing lands on all of it at once, so a proud support here is a dent in the metal later.
Measure, cut, and screw down the 1/2" CDX floor in the roost chamber. The source is explicit that the floor helps the structure — it's the diaphragm that keeps the box square, so screw it to every support it crosses.
Measure each opening and build each 2x4 door frame 1/4" smaller overall (1/8" gap per side). Back doors get T1-11 skins — account for the floor's thickness when placing the skin, per the source. Front doors get poultry fencing stapled to their frames.
Hang everything on the exterior hinges with pulls and two-motion latches. Ten hinges sounds like a lot until you've met a coop with too few doors; you never clean through a hatch you wish were bigger.
Center the two metal panels for even overhang on all four sides and drive the gasketed roofing screws into the four walls and the roof framing — through the flats, snug, not crushed.
The 5° slope is subtle by design; check that it drains AWAY from the run door before you commit the screws. Then introduce the hens to modern architecture.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →