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Step-by-step build — 18 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Tip: Put the Best Face Forward Plywood typically has two different grades of veneer faces. One face uses a better looking veneer. The other side has veneer that is usually less attractive. Obviously, you want the best-looking side to be the ones that show. So, as you make your project parts, be sure to note which are the “show” faces. That way, you’ll end up with a project that has consistent-looking panels and the best appearance.
Cut the Top, Middle, and Bottom Panel to size from 3/4" oak veneer plywood as shown in the cutting diagram. These panels are all exactly the same, so make sure your cuts are consistent. To get good-quality cuts, check out the Tip below. Choose which Panel you’ll use as the Top Panel, and mark it. A great way to do that without leaving marks on your wood is to apply masking tape and write on the tape.
Tip: How to Get Great Cuts in Plywood Want to get smooth, straight, and accurate cuts in plywood using a circular saw? Follow the advice in this video.
Now you need to cut the notches at all four corners of the Top, Middle, and Bottom Panels. The Tip below offers a couple of great ways to ensure clean, accurate cuts. One great way to make sure all of the notches are the same is to stack the panels and cut the notches in all three at the same time. Be sure to align the panel edges and ends, and clamp them together securely.
From a roll of iron on veneer edge banding, cut six side pieces and three front pieces for the Top, Middle, and Bottom Panels. Make the pieces slightly long. Apply the edge banding with a hot iron. After the edging cools, trim the veneer tape flush. Use a sharp utility to trim the ends. For the edges, you can use the knife, or use a veneer edge trimmer, as shown in the Tip below. Lightly sand the cut edges so they’re smooth and flush with the surrounding surfaces.
Tip: Trim Edge Banding Easily A utility knife will do the job of cutting iron-on veneer edge banding, but it can be tedious. For around $10 at a home center, you can pick up a veneer edge trimmer that does the job quickly and easily. It simply slides along the plywood, trimming the edging almost perfectly flush.
Cut four legs to length from 1/8" x 2" Aluminum angle. You can use a hacksaw, but that’s slow and inaccurate, Believe it or not, you can cut aluminum with a regular saw, such as your miter saw, as explained in the Tip.
Tip: An Easy Way to Cut Aluminum When most of us think of cutting metal, we envision specialized saws, a lot of tedious work with a hacksaw or making a noisy mess with a jigsaw. For cutting aluminum, though, a miter saw works just fine. Aluminum is a soft, non-ferrous metal, so a standard carbide-tipped blade made for cutting wood goes right through it. Just make sure to cut slowly, and wear safety safety glasses (of course!). Never try to cut ferrous metals, such as steel or iron this way, though!
Now you can start the initial assembly, as discussed in Step 1. First, attach the Top Support to the Top with 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket hole screws at the location shown.
Tip: Drive Right When Space is Tight When space is tight, it can be difficult or impossible to position a drill and a long square-drive bit for driving pocket screws. For less than $25, though, you can pick up a right angle attachment that works with any drill. Combine a right angle attachment with a 3" square-drive bit, and you can drive pocket screws almost anywhere.
Measure and mark the locations of the holes on each leg. With a nail, make an indentation at the hole location, this will keep the drill bit from wandering as you start drilling. Secure each leg on a scrap board and drill all of the holes with a 1/8" drill bit.
Place each Back Side panel in place so it is flush with the back edge of the Middle and Bottom Panels, and then secure the Back Side panels and with 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket hole screws. Next, set the Back Middle panel in place, and secure it with 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket hole screws.
With the Legs set, it’s time to finish the TV stand. As crazy as it sounds, the best way to do that is to take the whole thing back apart. That’s part of the beauty of pocket hole construction, though. Just remove he screws, and you can pull it all apart. Then you can reassemble it all later just as easily. With everything apart, you can sand all of the pieces and polish the Legs. Sure, this requires extra work, bit with clear access to all the surfaces, you’ll get a much better quality finish.