Craftsman Style Nightstands

Cut the nightstand side panels, back and drawer bottom from the 1/4" oak plywood sheet. Use 100 - 150 grit sandpaper to smooth the parts.

Cut the nightstand bottom from the 3/4" oak plywood sheet. Use 100 - 150 grit sandpaper to smooth the parts.

Cut the nightstand frame pieces from the 3/4" Poplar. Use 100 - 150 grit sandpaper to smooth the parts.

Cut the drawer box side, front and back pieces from the 1/2" poplar. Alternatively you can use 1/2" plywood. Keep in mind that plywood might be slightly thinner than its stated 1/2" thickness. If that is the case you will need to make slight adjustments to the measurements or the drawer may be a little too loose. Use 100 - 150 grit sandpaper to smooth the parts.

• Use a Kreg pocket hole Jig (set for 3/4") to drill all of the pocket holes for the frame assemblies. The attached diagram shows the approximate location of pocket holes in the frame assemblies.
• Once all pocket holes are drilled, assemble the two frames using wood glue and 1 1/4" Kreg coarse pocket screws.
• Check square and flatness.

• Mark the leg cuts on the two front stiles. Using a band saw or jig saw cut the legs. Keep in mind that you will be cutting a left and right side...so keep the best looking side out on both. Use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig to drill pocket holes in the inside ends of the front rail.
• Assemble the rail to the stiles as pictured using wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws.

Use a Freud (99-036) Adjustable Tongue and Groove Bit set mounted in a Kreg router table to cut grooves. The groove cutter bit is adjusted to cut 1/4" X 3/8" grooves in the center of the inside edges of the front and rear stiles. Alternatively the grooves can be cut on a table saw. Now mark the legs on the front and back side stiles. Using a band saw or jig saw cut the legs. To attach the 1/4" plywood back a 1/4" deep X 3/8" wide rabbit needs to be cut on the back inside edge of both rear side stiles. This can be done on a table saw by doing either several passes using a standard blade or single pass with a dado blade. Please be careful doing the rabbits as there is a left and right side and the rabbits should face inside.

Use a Freud (99-036) Adjustable Tongue and Groove Bit set mounted in a Kreg router table to cut the tongues and grooves in the four rails. Use the groove cutter bit adjusted to cut 1/4" X 3/8" grooves in the center of the rails inside edges. Then use the tongue cutter bit adjusted to cut 1/4" X 3/8" tongues on both ends of the rails. Alternatively the grooves and tongues can be cut on a table saw.

• Using a side rear stile, a side front stile, two side rails and a side panel - assemble a side. Use wood glue on the ends of the rails and along the edges of panels.
• Clean up any excess glue with a damp rag.
• Clamp snugly, check for square and readjust if needed.
• Repeat the process for the other side.

Accurately measure and mark the drawer guide placement on the top of one of the frames (pocket holes are on the bottom side). The distance between the inside of the drawer guides should be 15". Using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails attach the two guides to the top of the lower frame. The guides should be square and parallel on the frame.

Use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig to drill holes in the bottom.

Prepare for assembly by very accurately measuring and marking the distance of the upper edge of the frames from the bottom feet. The top frame should be flush with the top of the sides. I assemble on my table saw as it is flat and large enough to hold the nightstand. Place the front of the sides, the front of the bottom and the front of the frames down as they should be flush. (all pocket holes should face toward the feet) Line up each frame and the bottom with its marks and attach to the side with 1 1/4" Kreg fine pocket screws. I usually attach the frames and bottom to one side then repeat the process on the other side. Keep checking that the frames and bottom are square and parallel.

Attach the front assembly with wood glue, 1 1/4" brad nails and 1 1/4" pocket screws. The stiles should be flush with the front side stiles and the tops of the sides.

Use wood glue along the back side rabbits and on the back edges of the frames and bottom. Lay the 1/4" plywood (good side out) in place. It should be flush with the bottom and the top and fit inside the rabbits. Use 1" pin nails to tack in place.

Using the 1/2" poplar drawer box set cut in step 7 and the 1/4" plywood drawer bottom cut in step 4 prepare the drawer assembly. Please note that my drawer sizes are approximate and will vary depending on how you construct the box corners. I use a Freud (99-240) Drawer lock bit on my Kreg router table to cut all of the corners. I then use my table saw to cut a 1/4" deep X 1/4 inch wide dado in the sides, front and back. This dado should be 1/4 inch up from the bottom of each board.

• Assemble the sides, back, front and bottom. Use wood glue at each corner joint and on the edges of the plywood bottom. You can either clamp until the drawers are dry or use 1" pin nails in each corner.
• Check for square and adjust if needed.

• In the front of the drawer box drill 2 small pilot holes approx. 2 inches in from the edges and half way down from the top.
• Start two 1" flat headed self tapping wood screws on inside of the box.
• Place the drawer box into the nightstand with the two holes facing out. From the inside of the drawer box attach the drawer front to the front of the box with the two 1" screws. The drawer front should be flush with the bottom frame and equally spaced left to right. I use dimes as spacers.

• Cut the glued up top to final dimensions (22 X 21 1/2") The front and side edges of the top can be rounded over using a roundover bit and router or you can ease the edges with sandpaper...Your choice.
• Drill four 1/4" holes in the top frame.
• Place the top in position on the dresser with back flat edge flush with the back of the dresser and the top spaced evenly left to right (about 1"). From the underside of the top frame use four 1 1/4" Kreg fine pocket screws with washers to attach the top. The screws should be drawn snug but not over tight. This should hold the top in place but allow for any expansion or contraction of the top.

• Now that the build is complete fill all nail holes and other imperfections with wood putty, let it dry.
• Then use 100 - 220 sandpaper to do a once over on all surfaces in preparation for the finish.
• Clean well to remove all dust. (I use compressed air and clean dry rags). To prevent any smell in the drawer box use 2 or 3 coats of a water based sealant like Minwax Polycrylic Satin finish on it. As we live in an adobe style house, I chose to use Weathered Oak Minwax Stain. After the stain was dry I used Minwax Tung Oil finish. I gave the nightstand three coats following manufacturers instructions. After the finish dries add the drawer pull.