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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Every piece in this cabinet comes from a single sheet of plywood, so plan your cut layout on paper first — there's very little margin for a wasted cut. Cut the bottom off the sheet first to establish the two 34-1/2" side pieces, then cut the remaining sheet for the top and bottom (34-3/4" square each). You'll need a jigsaw to cut the toekick opening and the inside-corner notch on the top and bottom — see the next step for exact placement.
The back corner of both the top and bottom needs a notch cut to fit the back support boards. Leftover scrap plywood from ripping the sides works for these supports (about 3-1/2" wide), or use 1x4 boards. Notch the corner out with a jigsaw to fit whichever you choose.
Before assembly, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the outsides of the sides, top, and bottom — you'll need these for the face frame later. Attach the top and bottom to the sides, leaving the specified 5" gap underneath for the bottom shelf support — that gap is what lets the toe-kick and support structure clear the corner.
Attach the back support boards to the top and bottom, maintaining the same 5" gap under the bottom shelf.
Attach the 1/4" plywood back panels with 3/4" finish nails and glue.
Build the face frame separately, then attach it to the front of the cabinet — it overextends the sides of the cabinet by 1/4", matching the reveal on the rest of the kitchen run.
Install a full-overlay door sized to the opening, using concealed overlay hinges.