NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
This is the "easier" version of a corner base cabinet — square, not a lazy-Susan or diagonal-front design — and the whole plan hinges on getting every part out of one sheet of plywood, so cut order matters. Cut the bottom off first to establish your two 34-1/2" side pieces, then work the remaining sheet for the top and bottom; plan your cuts on paper before you touch a saw; there's very little margin for a mis-cut piece.
The top and bottom both need a notch cut into their back corner for the back support boards, and that notch has to be cut with a jigsaw after the main rectangular cuts — trying to cut it any other way on an inside corner is how you either blow past your line or leave the corner rounded when it needs to be square. Leave the 5" gap under the bottom shelf exactly as specified; that gap is what lets this cabinet's toe-kick and support structure clear the corner properly.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", finished, 4x8 sheetEvery carcass part comes from this one sheet — plan your cut layout before you start. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheetBack panels. | 1 each |
| Plywood scrap, 3/4"Support pieces. | 1 each |
| Poplar or hardwood, 1x2, 10 ftFace frame — matched to your door species. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Cabinet door, full overlay | 1 each |
| Concealed overlay hinges, 1-1/4" | 1 pair |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top and bottomPlywood, 3/4", finished, 4x8 sheetBack corner notched with a jigsaw to fit the back supports. | 2 | 3/4" × 34 3/4" × 34 3/4" |
| SidesPlywood, 3/4", finished, 4x8 sheet | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| Back supportsPlywood scrap, 3/4"1x4 boards also work. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34 5/16" |
| Bottom supportPlywood scrap, 3/4" | 1 | 3/4" × 5" × 15" |
| Support-supportPlywood scrap, 3/4" | 1 | 3/4" × 5" × 34 3/4" |
| Back panelsPlywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheet | 2 | 1/4" × 34 1/2" × 35 1/2" |
| Face frame stilesPoplar or hardwood | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Face frame railsPoplar or hardwoodTwo at 13-1/2", two at 12-3/4". | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/4" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Every piece in this cabinet comes from a single sheet of plywood, so plan your cut layout on paper first — there's very little margin for a wasted cut. Cut the bottom off the sheet first to establish the two 34-1/2" side pieces, then cut the remaining sheet for the top and bottom (34-3/4" square each). You'll need a jigsaw to cut the toekick opening and the inside-corner notch on the top and bottom — see the next step for exact placement.
The back corner of both the top and bottom needs a notch cut to fit the back support boards. Leftover scrap plywood from ripping the sides works for these supports (about 3-1/2" wide), or use 1x4 boards. Notch the corner out with a jigsaw to fit whichever you choose.
Before assembly, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the outsides of the sides, top, and bottom — you'll need these for the face frame later. Attach the top and bottom to the sides, leaving the specified 5" gap underneath for the bottom shelf support — that gap is what lets the toe-kick and support structure clear the corner.
Attach the back support boards to the top and bottom, maintaining the same 5" gap under the bottom shelf.
Attach the 1/4" plywood back panels with 3/4" finish nails and glue.
Build the face frame separately, then attach it to the front of the cabinet — it overextends the sides of the cabinet by 1/4", matching the reveal on the rest of the kitchen run.
Install a full-overlay door sized to the opening, using concealed overlay hinges.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.