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Compact Bookcase — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 9 boards at 8 ft.

3" × 24"

1 board · 20.7 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 39% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 58 7/8" left over

    1. Back — 36"

3" × 12"

1 board · 6.9 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 26% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 70 7/8" left over

    1. Top — 24"

3" × 11"

2 boards · 36.4 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 73% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 5/8" left over

    1. Left Side — 36"
    2. Right Side — 36"
    3. Bottom — 22"

  2. Board 2 · 50 3/4" left over

    1. Shelf — 22"
    2. Shelf — 22"

3/4" × 1"

1 board · 0.4 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 68% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 30 1/2" left over

    1. Rails — 22"
    2. Rails — 22"
    3. Stretchers — 10"
    4. Stretchers — 10"

5/8" × 1"

1 board · 0.2 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 52% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 45 5/8" left over

    1. Top Front Molding — 25"
    2. Top Side Molding — 12"
    3. Top Side Molding — 12"

1/4" × 3/4"

3 boards · 0.3 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 73% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 2 5/8" left over

    1. Front Edging — 35"
    2. Front Edging — 35"
    3. Bottom Edging — 22"

  2. Board 2 · 2 5/8" left over

    1. Side Edging — 35"
    2. Side Edging — 35"
    3. Shelf Edging — 22"

  3. Board 3 · 72 7/8" left over

    1. Shelf Edging — 22"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.