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The corners of the 1x12 tabletop boards get cut out with a jigsaw to receive the legs directly — the chunky 2x6 legs run right up through the tabletop's own corners rather than being hidden under a separate apron, which is what gives this table its stout, exposed-leg look. Measure the actual ends of your own 2x6 to confirm they're 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" before cutting the notches — dimensional lumber varies, and a notch cut to the nominal size instead of the real board can leave a gap or a too-tight fit.
Both the top and bottom shelves are framed the same way: a 1x3 (top) or 1x2 (bottom) outer frame nailed and glued at the corners, sized to fit the space between the tabletop cutouts, with three shorter cross pieces inside. Glue the panel boards edge to edge, then glue and nail the frame to their underside. Sand, stain, or paint both shelves and all four legs before final assembly — it's much easier to get full, even coverage on flat parts than after everything is standing.
Attach the legs to the top shelf face-down first, driving the screws at a slight outward angle for extra stability — you can set just one screw per leg initially and fully secure once the bottom shelf is in place, which makes it easier to keep everything level while positioning the second shelf.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x6, 8 ft or stud length | 1 each |
| 1x12, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x3, 6 ft | 2 each |
| 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Self-tapping star bit screws, 2" | 16 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, 120 and 150 grit | 4 sheet |
| Paint or stain | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x6, 8 ft or stud length | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 17" |
| Tabletop boards1x12, 8 ftCorners notched to fit the legs. | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 47 1/2" |
| Top frame ends1x3, 6 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Top frame sides1x3, 6 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 43" |
| Top frame cross pieces1x2, 8 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| Bottom frame ends1x2, 8 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Bottom frame sides1x2, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 43" |
| Bottom frame cross pieces1x2, 8 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
4 boards
2 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Measure the ends of the 2x6 legs to confirm they're 1-1/2" x 5-1/2", adjusting if necessary. Cut the corner notches out of the tabletop boards with a jigsaw and lay them out.
Measure between the cutouts and cut the top frame ends to fit. Nail the outer 1x3 frame together at the corners with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails, then measure the inside and cut the cross pieces to fit, nailing and gluing them inside.
Glue the tabletop boards edge to edge on a flat, level surface. Glue the back of the top frame and nail it to the underside of the boards.
Repeat the frame and panel steps for the bottom shelf, using a 1x2 outer frame instead of 1x3. Sand, stain, or paint both shelves and all four legs before assembly.
With the top shelf face down on a level surface, set the legs in place and attach with 2" star bit screws, two per leg, angled slightly outward for stability.
Mark the legs 2-1/2" down and set the bottom shelf in place. Attach with two angled screws per leg.
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