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Like its full-size counterpart elsewhere in this catalog, this chair's whole geometry comes down to the stringers — the two shaped side pieces that carry the seat slope and the seat back angle. Every angle on them is 15° off square in one direction or another, and the source is right to flag this as the step to get right: mark both stringers from the same pattern, cut them together if you can, and confirm they match before building anything else. A mismatched pair means a chair that rocks or sits crooked.
The surfboard detail lives in the arms — shaped and rounded rather than left as plain rectangular boards — and they're one of the last things attached, so there's no rush to get their shape perfect before the rest of the chair is solid. Fastening from the underside where possible keeps the show faces clean, the same trick used on the adult-size version.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 3 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4", 2", and 3" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
| Exterior finish or paint | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| StringersPineAll angles are 15° off square — mark and cut both together so they match exactly. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 17 3/4" |
| Front apronPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15" |
| Front seat slatPine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15" |
| Main seat slatsPineLeave 1/4" gaps between slats. | 5 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Front legsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11" |
| Seat back, middlePine | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 26 3/4" |
| Seat back, sidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Top seat back supportPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Middle seat back supportPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Bottom seat back supportPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Arm supportsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 5/8" |
| Arm rests (surfboard shaped)PineShape and round with a jigsaw for the surfboard look. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14 7/8" |
| Decorative arm supportsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4 1/2" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Getting the stringers right is the most important part of this build. Mark both from the same pattern, using a protractor to draw every angled line — all lines are 15° off square, in one direction or another. Cut both stringers and confirm they match exactly before continuing; a mismatched pair rocks or sits crooked. Mark the front edge of each stringer clearly so you don't lose track of orientation.
Attach the front apron to the stringers with screws and glue.
Lay the front 1x3 seat slat flush to the back of the cut stringer. Follow with the 1x2 slats, leaving 1/4" gaps between each.
Mark the front legs for seat height on their inside faces. Attach to the stringers and front apron with screws and glue — use 1-1/4" screws into the stringers and 3" screws into the front apron. Fasten from the inside and underside of the chair where possible to keep screws hidden.
Use 2" screws and glue to attach the stringers to the seat back — the chair really starts to take shape at this step.
Leave 3/4" of clearance at the front of the arm supports for the arms to land on later. Attach with 1-1/4" screws to the front legs and 2" screws to the back support.
Shape the arms into a surfboard silhouette with the jigsaw — rounded ends, tapered outline. Attach so they tie into both the arm supports and the seat back support, screwing or nailing with glue.
Glue and nail the decorative arm supports in place to complete the chair's styling. Sand everything smooth and finish with exterior paint or a clear sealer.
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2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →