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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Cut the two 2x6 headers to the curved profile. This is harder than it looks with a jigsaw in thick 2x stock — test your cut on a scrap first, go slow when you're satisfied, and sand the finished edge smooth. A clean curve is what makes the bed.
On both the footboard and headboard panels, attach the 1x6 base trim to the bottom of the panel with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Attach the 2x2 legs to the panel and header. Pocket holes set for 3/4" stock with 1-1/4" screws are recommended, but this isn't a high-stress joint — the load runs from the side rails to the legs and down — so glue and countersunk 3" screws work fine too.
Build the headboard the same way as the footboard, with the taller legs and the larger panel, capped by its shaped header.
Add the turned decorative feet to the base of the headboard and footboard legs.
Attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside of the 1x6 side rails. If you're using just a mattress (no box spring), you can bring the cleat up — as much as 1" from the top — so the mattress sits higher; with a box spring, keep the cleats flush to the bottom of the rails. Join the rails to the headboard and footboard.
Lay the 1x3 slats across the cleats and screw them down (skip this if you're using a box spring or bunkie board). Sand, fill holes, and finish or paint.