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This is a twin bed with a bit of shape to it: a curved 2x6 header cut with a jigsaw crowns both the tall headboard and the shorter footboard, each built as a plywood panel framed by 2x2 legs and a 1x6 base trim, standing on turned hardwood feet. It reads as a proper piece of furniture, and it's dimensioned to double as the bottom bunk of a matching bunk stack.
The jigsaw header cut is the part to practice first. It's a 2x6 — thicker stock than a jigsaw loves — so test your cut on a scrap, go slow, and sand the finished curve smooth. A ragged header is the first thing anyone sees.
The structure is reassuringly forgiving. The 2x2 legs attach to the panels with pocket holes (set for 3/4" stock), but this isn't a high-stress joint — the load travels from the side rails into the legs and down, so glue and countersunk 3" screws work just as well if you skip the jig. The side rails carry the mattress load via inner cleats. A useful option: raise the cleats up to 1" from the top of the rail if you're using just a mattress (no box spring) so it sits at a comfortable height; drop them flush to the bottom if you have a box spring. The 1x3 slats screw to the cleats. Add the turned feet last, and finish or paint.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Hardwood turned feet, 1-1/2 in dia, 6 in | 4 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs and cleats. | 4 each |
| Plywood/MDF/particle board, 3/4 in, 4x8 sheetPanels. | 1 each |
| 2x6, 8 ftShaped headers. | 1 each |
| 1x6, 8 ftBase trim and side rails. | 3 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftOptional slats (skip if using a box spring/bunkie board). | 4 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4 in | 1 box |
| Wood screws, 3 in | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4 in | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle |
| Finish or paint | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Headers2x6Cut the curved profile with a jigsaw. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 39" |
| Footboard panelPlywood/MDF/particle board, 3/4 in, 4x8 sheet | 1 | 3/4" × 17 1/2" × 39" |
| Headboard panelPlywood/MDF/particle board, 3/4 in, 4x8 sheet | 1 | 3/4" × 34 1/2" × 39" |
| Bottom trim1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 39" |
| Footboard legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 21" |
| Headboard legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 38" |
| Side rails1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 75" |
| Cleats2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 75" |
| Slats1x3Optional — skip with a box spring or bunkie board. | 14 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 39" |
Buy 17 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
4 boards
1 board
1 board
3 boards
7 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the two 2x6 headers to the curved profile. This is harder than it looks with a jigsaw in thick 2x stock — test your cut on a scrap first, go slow when you're satisfied, and sand the finished edge smooth. A clean curve is what makes the bed.
On both the footboard and headboard panels, attach the 1x6 base trim to the bottom of the panel with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Attach the 2x2 legs to the panel and header. Pocket holes set for 3/4" stock with 1-1/4" screws are recommended, but this isn't a high-stress joint — the load runs from the side rails to the legs and down — so glue and countersunk 3" screws work fine too.
Build the headboard the same way as the footboard, with the taller legs and the larger panel, capped by its shaped header.
Add the turned decorative feet to the base of the headboard and footboard legs.
Attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside of the 1x6 side rails. If you're using just a mattress (no box spring), you can bring the cleat up — as much as 1" from the top — so the mattress sits higher; with a box spring, keep the cleats flush to the bottom of the rails. Join the rails to the headboard and footboard.
Lay the 1x3 slats across the cleats and screw them down (skip this if you're using a box spring or bunkie board). Sand, fill holes, and finish or paint.
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