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Angled sides, mitered corners, drainage that actually works. An hour of cuts, a lifetime of not rotting.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Long side slats Top edges bevelled 5°. Three slats per long side. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 24" | Cedar | ☐ |
| Short side slats | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 14" | Cedar | ☐ |
| Corner cleats Inside the corners. The slats screw to these — this is what actually holds the box together. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15" | Cedar | ☐ |
| Bottom slats Spaced 1/2" apart. The gaps ARE the drainage. | 4 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 13" | Cedar | ☐ |
| Feet Lifts the box off the patio so the bottom can dry out. Skip these and the bottom rots first. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 3" | Cedar | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Cedar, 1x6, 8 ft (Western Red Cedar) Untreated. Cedar's oils are its own rot resistance. | 3 each | ☐ |
| Cedar, 2x2, for feet and cleats (Western Red Cedar) | 1 each | ☐ |
| Exterior screws, stainless or coated, 1-5/8" Plain steel + cedar tannins = rust streaks down your new planter within one rainy season. | 30 each | ☐ |
| Waterproof wood glue | 2 oz | ☐ |
| Landscape fabric Lines the inside. Holds soil in, lets water out. | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Combination Square, Table Saw. Materials: Cedar, 1x6, 8 ft
Every side slat gets its long edges ripped at 5°. That slight angle is what gives the box its taper — the sides lean out as they rise.
Cut all the bevels in one session without touching the blade angle. Consistency is what makes the corners close.
Tools: Miter Saw, Table Saw. Materials: Cedar, 1x6, 8 ft
Six long (24"), six short (14"). Three courses of slats per side.
Cedar is soft and splintery — score your cut line or use a fine blade if the top face is tearing out.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Cedar, 2x2, for feet and cleats, Exterior screws, stainless or coated, 1-5/8"
Stand a corner cleat vertically and screw the slats to it from the outside, one course at a time, leaving a small consistent gap between courses (or butt them tight — your call, gaps look lighter).
The cleats do the structural work. The corners are cosmetic.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Spring Clamps. Materials: Exterior screws, stainless or coated, 1-5/8"
Bring the four sides together around the cleats. Because of the 5° bevel, the corners should meet cleanly with the sides leaning outward.
Band-clamp or tape the corners while you drive screws. Bar clamps push mitered corners apart rather than together — don't fight it.
Screw two cleats across the inside, about 2" up from the bottom edge. Lay the bottom slats on them with 1/2" gaps between every slat.
That gap, plus the 2" air space below it, is the whole drainage strategy. Water leaves, air circulates, and the bottom of the box gets to dry out between waterings.
A solid bottom with four drilled holes will clog with soil and turn your planter into a bucket.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Cedar, 2x2, for feet and cleats, Exterior screws, stainless or coated, 1-5/8", Landscape fabric
Screw the four feet on. The box should sit with an air gap under it — on a patio, this is the difference between ten years and three.
Staple landscape fabric to the inside. It keeps soil from washing out through the bottom gaps while letting water through.
Fill with potting mix (not garden soil — it compacts and drowns roots in a container). Leave the cedar unfinished and let it silver.