NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
This desk keeps its frame genuinely simple — two 2x4 leg sets tied together by back supports — and gets its character from a scribed cross support rather than a fully boxed pedestal. Build the two leg sets first with self-tapping screws, then join them with the back supports before anything else goes on; that connected frame is the entire structural skeleton the rest of the desk builds onto.
The 1x4 cross support at the back gets scribed rather than cut to a fixed measurement — hold the board in place, trace the actual cut lines, then cut and attach; this is worth doing after the frame is standing so the scribe reflects the frame's real geometry rather than a nominal one. Set aside 24-1/2" of a 1x4 for the drawer face before scribing the cross support from the remainder, since both come off the same board.
The top attaches from above (or pre-joined with pocket holes if you have a jig), followed by drawer framing supports underneath that double as sag prevention for the middle of the desktop. The single drawer box is built to fit the resulting opening and rides on slides, with its face attached last, held down about 1/8" so it clears the underside of the desktop when opening and closing.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 4 each |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x12, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, small piece | 1 each |
| Drawer slides, 16 in | 1 pair |
| Self-tapping star bit screws, 2-1/2" | 30 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 3/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Leg supports2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 18" |
| Back supports2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 44" |
| Drawer support cleats2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 10 1/4" |
| Back cross supports1x4, 8 ftScribe to fit against the frame. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 44" |
| Drawer face1x4, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 24 1/2" |
| Top boards1x12, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 48" |
| Drawer sides1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" |
| Drawer front/back1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 21" |
| Drawer bottom1/4" plywood, small piece | 1 | 1/4" × 16" × 22 1/2" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two leg sets, attaching the leg supports to the legs with self-tapping screws.
Attach the two leg sets together with the back supports.
Reserve 24-1/2" of the 1x4 for the drawer face. Using the remainder, scribe the back cross support pieces in place against the frame, cut, and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
If using a pocket hole jig, join the top boards first. Attach the assembled top to the frame with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails, keeping overhangs even.
Attach the drawer support cleats under the desktop with glue and 2-1/2" screws — these also help prevent the desktop from sagging.
Build the drawer box to fit the opening using pocket holes or 1-1/4" brad nails. Attach the bottom with 3/4" brad nails and glue, then install on the drawer slides.
Attach the drawer face, held down about 1/8" to clear the desktop, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue, avoiding the handle location. Sand and apply primer and paint, or stain and poly.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.