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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Attach each side to its side trim as shown — do two. Fastening from the inside hides the screw holes. This is the first of several layers that stiffen the finished piece.
Build the box with the sides, top, bottom, and center partitions. Pocket screws (1-1/4") are cleanest, but countersunk screws and glue or even nails with lots of glue work — just make sure the fasteners are appropriate. Check for square.
Attach the legs flush to the inside of the box and the outside of the side trim, with finish nails or screws and glue or pocket holes from inside. Then add the front/back 2x2 trim the same way, and fasten the legs to the trim. Each layer adds real rigidity.
Add the top front and back trim. If using pocket holes, predrill holes in the top 1x12 to attach the trim from underneath so nothing shows on top.
Build the two drawers with pocket screws or 2" screws and glue. Place the bottom drawer guides first, shimming up ~1/8" as needed for a perfect-fitting drawer, then set the side guides. Measure the exact opening of your cabinet and build the drawers to it — don't trust the drawing.
Build the two board-and-batten doors from the 1x3 rails, 1x2 battens, and 1/4" plywood backs, sized to your real openings. Hang them, add knobs or handles to doors and drawers, and finish — this style takes paint and primer beautifully, but stain works too.