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This console dresses up simple 1x12 casework with a board-and-batten front — the vertical batten strips on the doors and the chunky 2x2 legs and trim give it a cottage weight that plain plywood wouldn't. Underneath it's approachable: a 1x12 box, two drawers, and two doors, joined with pocket holes or countersunk screws.
The framework matters more than any single joint. The side trim, the legs, and the front/back 2x2 trim each add a layer of rigidity, so even though the box is nailable, the finished piece ends up genuinely stout. Attach the legs flush to the inside of the box and the outside of the side trim; fasten the front/back trim the same way and tie the legs to the trim — that's what stiffens it.
The drawers are lifted straight from the site's nightstand plans (intentionally identical), and the same rule applies: measure the exact finished opening and build the drawers and guides to it, shimming the bottom guides ~1/8" for a perfect-fitting drawer. Cut the door and drawer face parts to your real openings, not the drawing.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12, 8 ftBox, top, partitions, drawer bottoms. | 3 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs, front/back trim, drawer/door trim, drawer guides. | 5 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftTop front trim, door rails. | 2 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftSide trim, door battens, drawer guides. | 2 each |
| 1x8, 12 ftDrawer boxes. | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywoodDoor backs and optional console back. | 1 sheet |
| Wood screws, 2-1/2"Or pocket hole screws. | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 10 oz |
| Knobs or handles | 4 each |
| Finish / paint and primer | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sides1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 19 1/2" |
| Side trim1x2Cut to the width of your 1x12. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Top1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 57 1/2" |
| Center partitions1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 18 3/4" |
| Box bottom1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 54 1/2" |
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/4" |
| Front/back trim2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 54 1/2" |
| Top trim back1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Top trim front1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 57 1/2" |
| Drawer/door trim2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Drawer front/back1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 20 1/4" |
| Drawer sides1x8Cut to the width of your 1x12. | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 11 1/2" |
| Drawer bottoms1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 18 3/4" |
| Door rails1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 3/8" |
| Door battens / stiles1x2 | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 3/8" |
| Door backs1/4" plywood | 2 | 1/4" × 15 3/8" × 16 1/4" |
Buy 14 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
Attach each side to its side trim as shown — do two. Fastening from the inside hides the screw holes. This is the first of several layers that stiffen the finished piece.
Build the box with the sides, top, bottom, and center partitions. Pocket screws (1-1/4") are cleanest, but countersunk screws and glue or even nails with lots of glue work — just make sure the fasteners are appropriate. Check for square.
Attach the legs flush to the inside of the box and the outside of the side trim, with finish nails or screws and glue or pocket holes from inside. Then add the front/back 2x2 trim the same way, and fasten the legs to the trim. Each layer adds real rigidity.
Add the top front and back trim. If using pocket holes, predrill holes in the top 1x12 to attach the trim from underneath so nothing shows on top.
Build the two drawers with pocket screws or 2" screws and glue. Place the bottom drawer guides first, shimming up ~1/8" as needed for a perfect-fitting drawer, then set the side guides. Measure the exact opening of your cabinet and build the drawers to it — don't trust the drawing.
Build the two board-and-batten doors from the 1x3 rails, 1x2 battens, and 1/4" plywood backs, sized to your real openings. Hang them, add knobs or handles to doors and drawers, and finish — this style takes paint and primer beautifully, but stain works too.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →