NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
The two side pieces are the one place this build asks for real care: they're cut as true mirror images, both beveled 30° so the roofline peaks upward, and both need matching holes drilled for the towel bar to pass through. Drill the towel-bar holes before you cut the final profile — corner-to-corner on a scrap test piece first, since lining up two holes on two separate boards so a single rod slides through both cleanly is fussier than it looks on paper.
Everything after that is straightforward glue-and-nail assembly: shelf between the sides, a mitered "roof" cap on top, a plywood or beadboard back, and a drop-ledge underneath for a second, lower surface. The optional double robe hooks are worth the small extra step if your bathroom wall space is tight — the larger single hooks shown as an alternative need more clearance than most powder rooms have.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood or beadboard scrap, 1/4"24" x 13-3/4" back panel. | 1 each |
| Wooden closet rod, 1" diaThe towel bar — cut to fit between the sides. | 1 each |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Double robe hooksOptional. Fit tighter wall spaces than the larger single hooks. | 2 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Roof cap sidesPineLongest-point measurement; top end beveled 30° off square. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 12 1/2" |
| ShelfPine | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| SidesPineTop end beveled 30° off square, longest-point measurement — cut as true mirror images with matching towel-bar holes. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16 1/4" |
| BackPlywood or beadboard scrap | 1 | 1/4" × 24" × 13 3/4" |
| Roof trimPineTop end angled 30° off square, longest-point measurement. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/4" |
| Drop ledgePine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 25" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the two side pieces with a jigsaw, keeping in mind the top bevels must angle upward on BOTH sides — that means the two sides are cut as true mirror images of each other, not identical copies. Drill the towel-bar opening in all four corners with a drill bit, then connect the dots with the jigsaw; this is trickier than it sounds, so practice on a scrap piece first. Sand both jigsaw-cut edges now so they match and are smooth.
With both sides oriented so their bevels point upward, glue and nail the shelf between them.
Mark the roof cap pieces on both their top and underside so you know exactly where and how to line them up. If you've already cut the back plywood, lay it on top of the shelf assembly and use it as an alignment pattern by matching edges. Attach the roof cap with nails and glue, and double-check its angle matches the roof trim you'll add in a later step.
Attach the back panel with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Glue and nail the roof trim pieces on, matching the angle set by the roof cap.
Glue and nail the drop ledge on below the main shelf, overhanging the ends by 1/2".
Thread the closet-rod towel bar through the holes in the two sides and glue it in place.
If you'd like hanging hooks, install double robe hooks below the shelf — they fit tighter wall spaces than the larger single hooks shown as an alternative.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.